Different length limbs question

[PlanB]

I built my bow with the handle offset one inch, which gave one limb 2 inches longer then the other, basically because I'd followed a how-to build along. But I'm now wondering if that was a good idea. I mean I think I understand the reasoning behind it, since the arrow rest is offset from the center of a bow, normally, and this would make up for it.

But, when I look at my bow with it's stiff handle, what it really did was make tillering hard to judge (for me), and made one limb bend in a smaller radius than the other. It had to because it was shorter to where it joined the stiff handle.

I'm thinking that maybe the different limb length idea would make better sense on a bendy handle bow instead of a stiff handle bow like mine. I could see how the bending part of the limbs would be the same (measured from the arrow rest) on a bendy handle bow with unequal limbs.

This is probably something everybody else already knows about, just something I wasn't aware of when I laid out my bow.

Well, if that's right....? Bendy handle bow, unequal limbs = okay, stiff handle bow better with equal length limbs?

[PEARL DRUMS]

It doesn't matter if its symmetrical or one limb is longer. Make each bend evenly on their own and make it balance in your bow hand.

[Del the cat]

+1
Do your own thing... One of my best bows was made (to shoot but not finished) at a demonstration day. Over a year later I realised the lower limb is about 3" longer than the upper!
It's all about the tiller.
Del

[PlanB]

So there's no real point in asymmetric limbs?

[wizardgoat]

That design works well for a positive tillered bow in my experience.
You should be aiming for an even bend for sure, with your bottom limb slightly stiffer.
If you measure the distance between the string and right out of the fade on a braced bow,
the bottom limb is usually around 1/4" less.
It helps to tiller the bow in your hand when your close, in front of a mirror or camera.
It also helps to train yourself in feeling limb balance, and not just seeing it.
A well executed asymmetrical postively tillered bow feels good in the hand. They apparently do not go out of tiller as easily, but I haven't been in this game for that long. Just my 2 cents.

[wizardgoat]

Also, a longer top limb just looks right to me

[PlanB]

That's really helpful to me, wizard.

[OTDEAN]

Dont even worry about it, just tiller it out as best you can.  When strung for shooting, find the balance point on your thumb and shoot from that position. Job done.

[rps3]

This is the first time I have made a longer bow...over 56" with equal length limbs, and I find it a little odd looking. The amount of string below my fingers as opposed to above just doesn't look right to me. Like wizard goat said, I should probably make the bottom a little more stiff. I still have about 2 inches to go yet.

[PlanB]

It does make the lower limb look longer than than the upper limb.

[scp]

I prefer to make it as simple as possible. That means I make all my bows as much symmetrical as possible. If I remember correctly that is recommended in TBB4 as well. I also make the handle pretty long, at least 8 inches. That means I can move my grip up and down several inches, depending on the characteristics of each particular bow. Good luck.

[TimBo]

I like the looks of asymmetrical bows as well, plus the balance point seems to make them just float along with you. 

[Del the cat]

So there's no real point in asymmetric limbs?

It is impossible for a bow to actually shoot symmetrically, as the arrow must pass above where you grip the bow. So even if you have a long riser you still have the dilemma of arrow pass or grip at the centre?
Even on modern Olympic recurves they have the same problem and the "adjust the tiller"(spits on floor) by winding in the limb mounting bolt to stiffen the lower limb.
Don't get hooked up on it, just make 'em how you feel and tiller 'em to shoot how you like.
If anyone tells you its "wrong" just ask 'em how many bows they've made, you'll prob' find it's a big fat zero.
Del

[bubby]

I build most of my bows with the center of the grip centered on the bow and as even of a tiller top and bottom as i can works for me

[Pat B]

I find a symmetrical bow is easier to see good tiller for me. When I first learned, many years ago, all the books set bows up with a 4" handle with 1 3/4" above and 2 1/4" below the center of the handle. Now on my bows the center of the handle is the center of the bow lengthwise.