Unfinished Ash recurve -> need sinew? (pics)

[Kviljo]

58" ntn, and I'm looking for 50-60# @ 28". Do you think it would be possible to tiller it as a selfbow? The ash has pretty good rings, and it follows one ring on the back. I should probably back it with sinew, but I think it would be awesome as a selfbow

http://kviljo.no/bue/askrekurve2/IMG_9515.jpg

http://kviljo.no/bue/askrekurve2/IMG_9510.jpg

http://kviljo.no/bue/askrekurve2/IMG_9535.jpg

http://kviljo.no/bue/askrekurve2/IMG_9541.jpg

[snedeker]

Those are incredible curves.  I'm speechless.  the recurve boys (or girls) should come to the rescue soon.

Dave

[Justin Snyder]

58" nock to nock minus 5" each end for recurves minus what appears to be a static handle, 6".  That sounds real short to me. If you pulled off 60# without backing or serious deflex I promise my vote for next month.  Justin

[Pappy]

I would say yes it needs sinew.That will be fun to tiller,especially get it braced for the first time.
Good luck.
  Pappy

[tom sawyer]

That'd be asking an awful lot of a piece of wood.  Sinew would certainly provide some insurance.  If those tips are going to be static I'd cut them shorter, if you can get them working a bit then that would be cool.

[Kviljo]

Thanks for your thoughts

I was hoping I could get the recurves to coil out a bit, and then cut them so that they point precisely up and down at full draw. No point in wasting the energy on unnecessary weight.

Guess I will have to go safe and give it some sinew. After all it would be a shame to break it.

[Hillbilly]

With the length, the species of wood, and the stress/shortening of the working limb area caused by the recurves,  I would also suggest sinewing it quite heavily. As a selfbow, if it doesn't break, I would expect the working limb areas to take a massive set by the time you reach your 28" drawlength.

[mullet]

 I'll kinda go along with Hillbilly.I think you'll have a sinew bow with a little wood.Can't wait to see it finished.

[stickbow]

Get the recurves working a little bit, maybe tiller it about a foot or so, do everything you can to get good tiller at this stage.

Then heat treat it a little and sinew it. That should make one amazing bow if it holds together. You have my vote too if it works.

[Kviljo]

Remember this one?


It's been hanging on the wall for a loong time now, but I recently gave it an oak belly, and just finished the first layer of sinew.

[Justin Snyder]

Looking great.  I don't know much about using oak.  I hope it doesn't fret easily. I am still anxiously waiting for the finished bow, keep us informed.  Justin

[Kviljo]

I'm hoping it won't, but these pieces of oak are pretty dense so I think it will be okay. But I don't think I will go any higher than 50# at 27-28". The main issue is probably getting the recurves aligned and stable.

This is just the first layer of sinew, so I didn't tidy it up as much as I could have. Aming for three layers. That should be enough?

[Coo-wah-chobee]

.....................I would do 4..............bob

[Ryano]

Thats asking a lot of ash even with sinew on the back.   I'm not a betting man but I'd be willing to bet thats going to fret like crazy it it doesn't brake first. Sorry but Ive tried all kinds of radical white wood recurves and never had much luck with them. Why the oak on the belly? your going to end up scraping most of it off during tillering anyways.....not trying to sound like a pessimist, just sharring what my experiance is, trying to save you the heart brake. Sinew is a lot of work.

[Badger]

Kvillo, nice work wether or not the bow makes it. I havent had the best of luck with ash in highly reflexed configurations. Maybe if you built it to the equivelent of about a 35# bow and let the sinew bring it up to 50#, limit the draw to 24' or 25" for flight arrows it might make a mean bow. There is a simple way you can check progress to see if the bow is breaking down or not. Once you brace the bow, or even if you are long stringing the bow. Just measure a point of draw say maybe at 14" or so and use this as a reference point, if increasing the draw length causes the draw weight at your reference point ot drop then you are over stressing the bow. Every time you take wood off tillering re-establish your new weight at a reference point. I have built many a highly reflexed bow that didnt break and even maintained reflex but got so soft in the belly they were worthless. I bet shortening up those curves a bit if you need to might could help also. Steve