Arrow pass wear

[DC]

Can you tell anything about spine or nock height from the wear in this picture? This has maybe 500 shots through it. It's the wear on the arrow rest I'm wondering about. I thought the arrow was supposed to lift off the rest when it bent. Am I wrong?(I quite often am)
I just noticed the scratches up towards the top of the arrows pass. How would I get marks up there?

[PEARL DRUMS]

Stiff arrows. I bet your arrows have a mark right at the front of the feathers to match.

[DC]

Will a stiff arrow seem to fly straight, just hit to the left?

[LittleBen]

Could also be a nock height problem.

I can't say this enough but bare shaft tuning is really the only way to get properly spines arrows.

Every set of arrows I build has one with only maybe 1/2" of fletchng left on it (a modified bare shaft). I use that for tuning the arrows. Once I have them tuned as close as I can, I confirm with broad head tuning. Then later on if I'm having accuracy problems I can always return to the bare shaft to see what's going on ... Arrows too moist, bow lost weight, form closing in, form opening up too much etc. once you know your setup is tuned, the bare shaft is a great training tool.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Yes sir. A stiff arrow is easier to get good flight than a weak arrow. Sometimes you can bump up your brace a 1/2" or so, and you can also try raising the nock point a fuzz higher than where it "should" be.

[LittleBen]

Yes sir. A stiff arrow is easier to get good flight than a weak arrow. Sometimes you can bump up your brace a 1/2" or so, and you can also try raising the nock point a fuzz higher than where it "should" be.

X2. Time for a tuning day at the range.

[DC]

So, should there be a wear mark of any kind?

[PEARL DRUMS]

There will always be some wear.

[DC]

Thanks, I'll refinish it and try lighter arrows. The bow is about 35#. I had been shooting 32# spine arrows that I bare shafted with this bow. I decided to try some 40# arrows (for some reason) and then I noticed the wear.
What about the scratches up by the top of the pass? What would cause them? Same thing?

[Pat B]

When you release an arrow it should not touch the bow if the arrow is properly spined for the bow and your style of shooting. A sloppy release can also cause problems as well as an arrow that is not tuned properly.

[DC]

A sloppy release is a good possibility . That's one of the big problems I'm having, I never know whether to blame me or the equipment. I usually blame me but this time, maybe equipment.

[Pat B]

It always comes down to you. Whether it is an unturned arrow or poor release.
 The arrow is the most important part of the archery game but most folks don't seem to realize that. Any bow will shoot a well tuned arrow but no bow will shoot a poorly tuned arrow well.
 Learning proper form, a good release and follow through and lots of "GOOD" practice is what makes you a good archer. Once you get to that point, only by practice, then you can concentrate on getting the properly tuned arrow for your bow and your style of shooting. After many years of shooting bows I don't even think about my form or even the bow or arrow while I'm shooting. I concentrate on where the arrow will go. I feel the tension on the string then see the arrow in the target. By getting to this point in my archery career I don't have to worry about the peripheral clutter just where the arrow will go. I let my unconscious brain handle the rest. 

[PEARL DRUMS]

That "bang" sound for me is a short draw indicator. When I hit my 28" plus draw, they leave like the wind.

[DC]

The "bang" meaning the arrow smacking the bow because it's too stiff(short draw)??

[PEARL DRUMS]

Correct.