Making a Take Down Sleeve ideas/help

[Del the cat]

I have a boo backed Yew English longbow which I've deliberately made 3/4" off straight laterally 
This was a cunning plan to give me an excuse to try loads of daft straightening techniques, none of which worked long term and to then saw it in half and try to make a carriage bow.
I've got some decent gauge steel plate for the socket end, I'll wrap it round a former, beat the heck out of it and then make a messy weld up the seam (or get my mate Mick the blacksmith to run a decent seam up it, he's probably reading this and rolling his eyes).
I notice the commercial ones seem to have thinner brass on the other (male) end.
Presumably this is to avoid cutting deep into the wood and creating a weak point? Any reason why brass/steel is a good combo'? I thought dissimilar metals would tend to corrode.
I'll prob' buy some brass or steel tube and thump that into shape for the male end and then make the steel (female) end fit it.... or I dunno'.
Anyone got any thoughts or words of wisdom they like to share.
The commercial ones are too bug for the grip on this bow which is about 1" x 1 1/4"
Del

[PatM]

Just go with the glass sleeve  tutorial on here.. You're already committed to modern material.

[mikekeswick]

Del - watch this series of videos. This is how i do mine now. The real beauty is any size/shape of handle is no problem and it's pretty much impossible to even tell it's a takedown.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByxnlRc0ePc

[Chief RID]

I know that stainless steel will gauld (gaulding). I don't know about that term at all. Wehn a stainless nut is used on a stainless threaded rod it will do this. Actually it begins to feel cross threaded but the threads actually become damaged by just being tightened over and over again. Using a brass nut fixes it.

[Del the cat]

Del - watch this series of videos. This is how i do mine now. The real beauty is any size/shape of handle is no problem and it's pretty much impossible to even tell it's a takedown.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ByxnlRc0ePc

Hi, Very cool, but I'm not sure I want to mess with glass and resin having put a new front on a Reliant Regal van in my youth! It's pretty smelly evil stuff.
This is only a 'play' project as the bow has a couple of patches on the belly anyway... the billets weren't the best, the boo was twisted (yeah, I know that sounds impossible, but by the time I'd planed it thin it was all over the shop).
But other than that, it's a great bow Only 40# draw weight.
I'm really doing it as a novelty and I haven't the heart to scrap it as it's V fast.
I'll do some armchair work* on it and look at price/availability of glass vs brass.
Cheers
Del
* I do less damage from the armchair

[PatM]

Epoxy is nothing like the polyester resin used for cars. It's much less smelly and stronger to boot.

[Del the cat]

Epoxy is nothing like the polyester resin used for cars. It's much less smelly and stronger to boot.

Ah, right, silly cat!
I'll look on line for supplies.
Del

[Del the cat]

Woo, got it done, but not cleaned up yet.
Thanks for the advice, really good result, despite falling on my backside while trying to separate it for the first time
Oh... BTW... the bow is straight now
For the eagle eyed amongst you... that's a belly patch on the right limb, there was a pair of knots that were giving an ugly pinch and I thought better safe than sorry.
More pics and details on my blog:-
http://bowyersdiary.blogspot.co.uk/2015/03/take-down-sleeve-success.html
Del

[sieddy]

Great job Del!
The bow looks brilliant! 

[JoJoDapyro]

Iade mine from copper pipe and micarta.

[PatM]

 Glad that worked out for you Del. A little bit of glass comes in handy now and then.

[Barrage]

Looks good Del.

This is good timing.  I have been thinking of making a takedown the past few days. 

How long was your fiberglass handle? I'm guessing 4"?

[Del the cat]

Looks good Del.

This is good timing.  I have been thinking of making a takedown the past few days. 

How long was your fiberglass handle? I'm guessing 4"?

Yup 4" with the join midway.
Del

[Jim Davis]

By way of making things much easier, it's a fallacy that handles have to be oval in cross section. If one supports the bow only by the bac of the handle as one should, round works fine, in fact is much more repeatable.

No need to make a screw-together setup like mine. Just coat the inside of one end of the tube with wax when you put the epoxy-coated round limb end into it. When the epoxy has cured, just pull the end out (might have to twist a little).

[Barrage]

Thanks Del.