Short yew bow advice needed. (Now with pictures)

[Tommytinker]

So I'm mid build on a short yew bow. It's 51" tip to tip. It's made from a branch and has ended up only 1" wide at its widest, continuing this width the majority of the limbs. I've mildly reflexed the last 8" of each limb to help with string angle and reduce stack. The back in fairly high crowned sapwood, not a continuous ring, I just reduced the sapwood to an even thickness and flattened the back slightly. I'm concerned with how narrow the limbs are for such a short bow. Should I be? I intend to back it, with either sinew or rawhide. I'd rather not mess around with sinew if I don't have to. Which would you guys use? Would sinew just put more stress on the narrow belly and risk fretting?

[Pat B]

Sinew would be my choice. It should make a rocket launcher with a couple of layers of sinew. Sinew would help prevent fretting if your tiller is good.
 What is your draw length and what poundage are you shooting for?

[Tommytinker]

I was hoping for 50# @25"
My draw length is normally 27" but I can adjust my anchor point by 2 or 3 inches.

[wizardgoat]

50# at 25" would be possible, but I would sinew in a reverse brace when you get her to brace height.
1" wide is no problem for yew, but at that length and weight it pretty high stress. Sinew would help it keep a little reflex
And probably be a banger

[Carson (CMB)]

What does the cross section look like? I know you mentioned the back is slightly crowned after being slightly flattened. What does the belly look like? I am assuming rather flat, given the short length. I would imagine it needs to bend through the handle to reach your target of 25" draw, given the 1" wide limbs.  When considering backing options, I always consider how and where the bow will be used. I live and hunt in Western Oregon, and I would rather not deal with concerns, real or imagined, about sinew and moisture during a hunt.
Sounds like a neat bow. Looking forward to seeing it.

[Tommytinker]

The belly is indeed rather flat. Unfortunately a bendy handle is out of the question as there is a cluster of nasty nots in the centre and the fact that I've already sliced a shelf into it (a little hasty I know!) in your opinion do you think I'm safer shooting for 40# rather then 50# ? I don't want to take the draw any shorter then 25" to be honest.

[bradsmith2010]

making the bow 40 would decrease stress for sure,, no need to cut a shelf in a narrow bow,, tie a shelf on the next one and see how you like it,,
with a little reflex the 40 is going to shoot hard, I would go for that in this piece of wood,, not saying you cant go more,, but being on the safe side increases your odds of success,, and we all like success,, 

[wizardgoat]

yew can handle some knots to some degree. especially if backed. you should really post a pic or 2 to get some real advice.
51" with a stiff handle will be a pretty short draw
carving your handle, shelf, and fancy tips should never be done in my opinion until it's shooting some arrows.
its a waste of time in case it breaks, and bad mojo!! 

[Tommytinker]

Bit of snake, but the tips line up.

[Tommytinker]

Hope these pictures help you help me! I know the arrow shelf was hasty! Whoops!

[Del the cat]

Lookin' good.
You've got a bit of tip width to play with to keep the string alignment.
I'd guess you have a pretty high draw weight on that at the moment.
Del

[Tommytinker]

Yes Del, it's barely at floor tiller. Does anyone think I could get away with rawhide and not sinew? Really want to get it done before Xmas. Happy to lower the weight to 40#

[Benedikt]

I'd put a thin sinew layer on it.
The belly can handle this highly probable.
Since yew heartwood can be deformed pretty much without getting damage, it wouldn't be too much stress for the belly and, furthermore, i'd prevent any clips on the back from lifting.
The handle looks very well, although i don't like shelfs on selfbows, but...to each his own
Greetings,
Benedikt