bamboo backed hickory delam help please

[sleek]

I glued a flattened boo strip on a tillered hickory stave. 24 hours later I was floor testing it and it came apart. I ised tight bond 3 what are yall using? It also looked like I had better adheasion in the center that the edges.

[bushboy]

I wait at least a week before flexing,don't care what the label says cuz their talking about flooring or something. If there is a poor glue line no amount of time will fix that.i'm loving staves right now,not sure if. I have the resolve to mess with lam bows again.

[bubby]

Out here I start working the bow the next day sleek, how warm was it where you had the bow

[tattoo dave]

I have had more trouble with titebond on lam bows that I care to mention, and other projects too I have a deer grunt call just made last week that I can't sell because of a bad glue line, used titebond. Finely just stopped using it. May be my clamping methods, who knows, but I'm sticking with system three 2 part epoxy from here on out. The stuff is pricey, but worth it.  Seems to work great for me.

Tattoo Dave

[sleek]

Out here I start working the bow the next day sleek, how warm was it where you had the bow

It was inside all night and day. I got it gluing up again. If it fails again I will be giving up on it.

[sleek]

Dave, you ever try west system? I have used it for building boats. Same deal as system 3 but not sure which is better.

[mikekeswick]

Titebond 111 is an awesome glue the only reasons for it to fail are poor mating surfaces (it has no gap filling properties at all, you must have perfect surfaces), not cured fully or you got dust etc in the joint and finally insufficient clamping pressure/too much clamping pressure.
I've never had a single failure with titebond. I must have glued up at least a hundred + lam bows with it.
I always recommend getting the data sheet that every glue has (ask the manufacturer) and then follow it to the letter.
Tattoo Dave - using titebond isn't the reason for a bad glueline. The gluelines are one of my favourite things about titebond - you can't see them at all when done right.

[Wooden Spring]

I used to use Titebond 3, but after I did a LOT of destructive testing (some of it actually on purpose  ), I asked a friend of mine back in NC who builds boats for a living. For tough gluing operations where you need intense strength, flexibility, and all weather resistance, there's NO substitute for Resorcinol Glue.

I buy the 1 quart kit of Aerodux Resorcinol Resin from Amazon.com. It's a bit expensive at $62 per quart, but there's enough in there for about a dozen bows. (Make sure you mix it at a 5:1 ratio by weight, so a $20 digital scale is a must. I usually use 60g of liquid to 12g of powder for one bow. Oh, and don't use excessive clamping pressure... Just enough for squeezout is fine.)

Yeah, it's expensive, but where I've had Titebond 3 gluejoints fail, every destructive test that I've ever done with Resorcinol, the wood literally ripped apart where it was glued. There was never even one instance of a glue joint failue. That's why this stuff is used in boat building, as well as high strength industrial applications - it just works. It will even fill small gaps.

[adb]

Titebond 111 is an awesome glue the only reasons for it to fail are poor mating surfaces (it has no gap filling properties at all, you must have perfect surfaces), not cured fully or you got dust etc in the joint and finally insufficient clamping pressure/too much clamping pressure.
I've never had a single failure with titebond. I must have glued up at least a hundred + lam bows with it.
I always recommend getting the data sheet that every glue has (ask the manufacturer) and then follow it to the letter.
Tattoo Dave - using titebond isn't the reason for a bad glueline. The gluelines are one of my favourite things about titebond - you can't see them at all when done right.

+1. Not one single glue failure with TB3 on hundreds of bows.

[PEARL DRUMS]

I would lean towards one of the pieces being cupped and the surfaces not contacting fully. URAC will hold that gap, TB3 wont.

[Pat B]

Or the glue not totally cured out before you stressed it. These glues are water based and that moisture gets drawn into the wood, even osage. I like to give a glue up plenty of time to cure before stressing the bow.

[adb]

Titebond recommends a minimum of 24 hrs before stressing the joint. I usually set aside a glue up for a couple of days. Longer if I have time.
Titebond is good glue, but it`s really all about the mating surfaces and even clamping. Your surfaces have to be perfect... period. And clean. It is not glue for bad prep.

[PatM]

simson did post a bow that he'd added a bamboo backing to with TB and the glueline was terrible by his own admission. I wonder if it's still holding up?

[missilemaster]

The thing I dislike about titebond is that you get glueline creep. Since switching to EA-40, I have not had a problem. That glue is made for bows.

[tattoo dave]

Sleek, I've never used west system epoxy.

Mike, I know it's not the glues fault. Like I said, may be my clamping methods or other issues. My point being the epoxies just seem to be more forgiving, due to the gap filling benefits, that titebond can't do.

Tattoo Dave