shaping/ tapering jig

[jayman448]

hey guies. was hoping someone has  dementions for making a home made arrow plaining jig (like the one shown in bowiers bible used with a fiddle makers plane)

[chamookman]

I believe 3Rivers has what You want. Bob

[jayman448]

I know, but there must be blue prints so I can make one isn't there? if I don't got to pay the big bucks then why bother? I mean if I was into paying big bucks for the archery experience id shoot carbons and compounds XD (plus im broke) haha

[TimBo]

If you are talking about the Strunk arrow plane, the plane blade has a curved edge, so it might be tricky to make.  I have one and love it, but I did make something that worked OK before by using a 2x4 with a couple of arrow-height strips nailed on (rather than the V notch like the Strunk) and a thumb plane.  I also have a 2x4 with a V notch that I use with the thumb plane (no strips nailed on) when I am using the method Jay Massey describes - square dowel, then 8 sided, then 16 sided, then sand.  That is helpful for getting the shaft down to 3/8" so it works on the Strunk plane, but you could also just take it down to finished size that way. 

There are also a couple of drill/router or drill/table saw jigs I have seen, but I have never used one of those.  You can find plans somewhere on the Arrows part of this site.

[Pat B]

You can build your own with a piece of wood with a "V" groove down its length. Place the stock in the "V" groove and reduce the shaft with a thumb plane. You can buy a thumb plane from Lowe's, Home Depot, etc. for about $10 or so.

[Prarie Bowyer]

Mine is built into my bench.  The top I'd deck boards.  The radius corners but up to make the "v".

If I were to make one I'd saw rip a piece of wood in half, champ her the corners with a small hand plane the reglue it keeping the glue out of  groove.  Glue in or screw in a stop at one or both ends.

I like the small Asian hand plane that comes in rosewood from Japan woodworker.

A tongue and groove floor board may work as is turned with groove end up.

[jayman448]

ok.. so im still confused. so does the v notch have to be a certain depth? whats the theory behind all of this? like do you plain right down till you hit the V or the nailed in boards? or is this whole apparatus more for simply holding the square stock?

[Pat B]

Here is my jig and small, cheap thumb plane...


you can see the small wood stop at the far end...

[DC]

The V notch is for holding the wood. The diameter and roundness depend on you

[Pat B]

You can even make tapered shafting with this method.

[jayman448]

Ooooo ok. Thanks!

[Grasshopper Mouse]

I may have to put one of those together to give it a try.
I've been making battleshafts for a group shooting heavy yew warbows and simply free handing the taper. This jig may make it easier to steady the shaft during the planing operation. Hanging onto a 1/2" shaft isn't too bad but the board may make it just a little bit better.

Guy

[Prarie Bowyer]

Well this is what I do:

If starting from square stock I saw out a square 1/16" or so bigger than my intended diameter.  Then I start knocking corners off till I get an octagon.  Then I take that  to a..... Er 16 agon.?? Then I make a mark on my bench and arrow that represents some distance of the arrow I want to taper.  The front part of the shaft gets a lighter touch.   The back part gets more strokes to create the taper while rounding it.  Then I also reduce the front few inches a bit to get it into my tips of socket cutter.

I use 80 grit belt sanding paper to smooth out the shaft then send finer.  I don't go nuts there.  I stop at 150 to 220.  If using glue on knocks I do that now or if self knocks, I start those by gluing in an insert into a saw kerf across the grain.  When dry I clean up and shape the knock.   Rub it down with teak oil or similar.  When dry I poly coat but have used shellac.   Fletch shoot etc.

[Grasshopper Mouse]

PB, your taper procedure is very similar to what I do.
I'm doing a 15" taper on a 36" shaft. On the nock end I mark 5", 10", and 15".
I run the little hand plane from the 5" mark to the nock end of the shaft, once around the shaft.
Then I run the plane from the 10" mark to the end of the shaft, once around the shaft.
Repeat from the 15" mark.
As you can see, the first 5" section has the plane go over it three times. The 10" section twice and the 15" section once. I repeat as needed until the end of the shaft gets close to 3/8". Then I sand with 80grit to even out the ridges from the plane. After gluing in the horn reinforcing strip for the nock and cutting in the nock I finish sand to 200grit and I'm done.

Jeez... I wish the actual work went that fast!

Guy