Author Topic: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong  (Read 4342 times)

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Offline Wobgnol

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1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« on: October 16, 2014, 09:56:43 pm »
Using Files, rasps and a red oak board from Lowes. Spent about 4 1/2 to 5 hours working down this 1x3x8. I am pretty new to all this so I am open to any and all help!

Offline Wobgnol

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #1 on: October 16, 2014, 10:01:22 pm »
For some reason I can't upload any pictures. The attachment thing here just loads for a while then takes me to a refreshed "start new topic" page.

Offline bow101

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #2 on: October 16, 2014, 10:25:41 pm »
Your pic is to large.
"The privilege of a lifetime is being who you are."  Joseph Campbell

Offline Wobgnol

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #3 on: October 16, 2014, 10:42:39 pm »
Thank you bow101

Offline huisme

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #4 on: October 17, 2014, 01:38:57 am »
Unless you're going for bendy your handle can be far more narrow. Most of my handles are within an inch wide.
50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline DarkSoul

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #5 on: October 17, 2014, 06:25:48 am »
You've picked a great board! Perfectly straight grained. For a traditional bow, selecting decent wood is already half the battle.
The design you've chosen a very difficult design, especially for a beginner, but even for an experienced bowyer. This lay-out is called a Mollegabet and not a true longbow per se. It depends on the definitions though, as some people would call any bow where the string only touches the string grooves a longbow.
A Mollegabet (sometimes abbreviated to molly on here) is notorious for the width transitions from handle to limb, and from limb to lever. These abrupt transitions can easily be weakened if the bowyer does not compensate with enough additional thickness. Bend creeping into the transitions often leads to a fatal crack. Given the limited thickness of this board (only 3/4" true thickness), you're making it difficult for yourself. You should glue on an additional riser, but that is likely to pop off. Use several very thin (about 1/8") laminations and glue them onto the handle and fade area. I would also recommend narrowing the handle and bending limb area. The handle can easily be 1" wide (but glue on the riser pieces first). The bending limb is now a uniform 2" wide. It is easier and better looking to taper it slightly. Say from 2" near the handle to 1½" at the end near the lever transition.

Good luck and keep updating this topic!
"Sonuit contento nervus ab arcu."
Ovid, Metamorphoses VI-286

Offline bubbles

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #6 on: October 17, 2014, 11:33:03 am »
Did you rasp out the entire profile??? Cutting out the profile should take 1/2 an hour

Offline Blaflair2

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #7 on: October 17, 2014, 11:59:00 am »
That's what it looks like  :o ur sure determined, that's a lot of filing
Nothing ventured nothing gained

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #8 on: October 17, 2014, 01:40:05 pm »
Holy Rasping! Dedication. I did my first handle with a pocket knife.  >:D
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline Parnell

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #9 on: October 17, 2014, 01:48:14 pm »
You gonna back that bow?  Keep it going, good for you!
1’—>1’

Offline Wobgnol

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #10 on: October 17, 2014, 02:25:47 pm »
Yes holy rasping, indeed. I need to spend some cash or hit up some rummage sales for old tools. But I will take a picture of my small tool arsenal for everyone. And yes I do plan on backing the bow but money is tight so I heard that Dry wall tape will be ok backing for starting out. I dont want to waste good hides or sinew on my 1st few bows. Maybe in a year or so when I get better. and Thank you every for the advice I am writing down all that you tell me in a Comp book so please dont think I am ignoring anyone! I love knowledge and to actually build something and put in time and at the end of the day turn and look back at what I did is really the true reward here I am hooked and I haven't even truely started yet!

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #11 on: October 17, 2014, 02:58:38 pm »
My first bow is red oak, unbacked. I would work on building an unbacked one before you do a backed one. Make sure you are using everything you learn. If it breaks, build another. I was told by a few people that I HAD to back my board, and so far so good.
If you always do what you always did you'll always get what you always got.
27 inch draw, right handed. Bow building and Knapping.

Offline bubbles

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #12 on: October 17, 2014, 05:31:16 pm »
I suggest getting a hatchet :)   And if you're going to back, I would suggest backing with a couple layers of linen, or silk, or even a pair of camo pants from a thrift shop, both in the spirit of keeping it semi-primitive and because drywall tape is not the most attractive thing in the world.   

Offline lebhuntfish

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #13 on: October 17, 2014, 06:07:21 pm »
You've picked a great board! Perfectly straight grained. For a traditional bow, selecting decent wood is already half the battle.
The design you've chosen a very difficult design, especially for a beginner, but even for an experienced bowyer. This lay-out is called a Mollegabet and not a true longbow per se. It depends on the definitions though, as some people would call any bow where the string only touches the string grooves a longbow.
A Mollegabet (sometimes abbreviated to molly on here) is notorious for the width transitions from handle to limb, and from limb to lever. These abrupt transitions can easily be weakened if the bowyer does not compensate with enough additional thickness. Bend creeping into the transitions often leads to a fatal crack. Given the limited thickness of this board (only 3/4" true thickness), you're making it difficult for yourself. You should glue on an additional riser, but that is likely to pop off. Use several very thin (about 1/8") laminations and glue them onto the handle and fade area. I would also recommend narrowing the handle and bending limb area. The handle can easily be 1" wide (but glue on the riser pieces first). The bending limb is now a uniform 2" wide. It is easier and better looking to taper it slightly. Say from 2" near the handle to 1½" at the end near the lever transition.

Good luck and keep updating this topic!

+1,  well put DarkSoul. That is pretty much what I wanted to say but couldn't figure out the words. I attempted one of these on my 3rd bow and backed it with dog bone rawhide. I still look at the two pieces from time to time. Patrick
Once an Eagle Scout, always an Eagle Scout!

Missouri, where all the best wood is! Well maybe not the straightest!

Building a bow has been the most rewarding, peaceful, and frustrating things I have ever made with my own two hands!

Offline SeanStuart

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Re: 1st longbow attempt by Woblong
« Reply #14 on: October 18, 2014, 05:16:49 pm »
I have nothing to add, just want to find the thread in the future. Luck!