Author Topic: Kit bows  (Read 12231 times)

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Offline Jax666

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #15 on: October 16, 2014, 07:16:44 am »
Rawhide could be obtained from a rawhide dog bone - for 3 -6$, more than enough to back a bow.  Try to get one that doesn't look superthick, and looks to not have a lot ofholes.
would a dog bone be long enough?

Offline Jax666

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #16 on: October 16, 2014, 07:20:32 am »
A paper bag isn't going to offer much protection...try sticking your finger through one  >:D
Rawhide is one of the best backing if your grain is dodgy. Easy to apply once you've got the hang of it too.
Unless you get a very straight grained board back it.
is there a trick to applying raw hide?Do you wet it first?

Offline Hrothgar

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #17 on: October 16, 2014, 11:25:32 am »
There are probably several different methods to apply rawhide. In the past I've let it sit in warm water while preparing the wood. This allows it to soften up and expand some. Meanwhile I'll apply a generous amount of Titebond II and let it begin to set up some. Next, remove the rawhide from the water, blot it dry with a towel, stretch it out a bit, then carefully position it on the wood. I like to wrap it at the handle first, then pull it fairly snug toward the tips, and wrap them next, then wrap the rest of the limb. You don't want to wrap to tightly because it will leave indentions in the leather. Also, You'll have to remove some of the wrappings after several hours in order to allow the air to completely dry everything. The drying will likely take a couple days.
" To be, or not to be"...decisions, decisions, decisions.

Offline paoliguy

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #18 on: October 16, 2014, 01:03:20 pm »
I backed my first board with material from a a pair of camo pants I got at Goodwill. Wasn't pretty but it was cheap and it worked. Linen sure looks better though.
What about blue jeans?
I've heard of guys doing that but I suspect you would want thin material rather than very heavy denim.

Offline bubbles

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #19 on: October 16, 2014, 11:49:35 pm »
I get the biggest dogbone I can find (not necessarily the thickest)  and you end up splicing two strips
 together at the handle.

Offline lebhuntfish

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #20 on: October 17, 2014, 12:36:54 am »
You said you were at Menards. They have dog bones that are huge. Like 2.5 feet long. That's where I get my rawhide from. There is enough to back a couple bows in one bone.  Check out boarrior bows on YouTube he does a dog bone backing demo with a bone just like I'm talking about. Patrick
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Offline Jax666

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #21 on: October 17, 2014, 07:24:49 am »
Now all I need is a board.

Offline Jax666

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #22 on: October 30, 2014, 07:09:22 am »
If you mean kit as in a laminate bow then no IMHO...saplings and proper chosen grain boards are best to learn on.

If your a cheap goat like me your best option is to go cut some whitewood saplings and learn on them for free..instead of payin money for materials that you'll possibly ruin in the end..and even if ya r successful it'll still be far from what it should be...99% of anyone trying there hand at bowmaking takes many tries,trials,and successful bows to be able to make a great bow....do your best but don't expect your firsts to be all that you hope it to be...good luck and don't give up ;)

PS..a sapling (or any fresh green cut wood)can be flinging arras in a few weeks via quick dry method
Saplings? How big? I have some wild cherry that needs cut and a pear tree.  Quick dry? I will have to look into this.

Online Pat B

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #23 on: October 30, 2014, 09:26:27 am »
Saturate a brown paper bag with TBIII, let it dry completely and then try to put your finger through it.  ::)
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline sweeney3

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #24 on: October 30, 2014, 10:12:49 am »
Cherry might not make the best sapling bow.  Not that cherry won't make a really fine bow, but you might want a wider back than most saplings will provide.  Although, with some rawhide or a pristine design and tiller you might have a screamer.  It would scare me though.  An elm, hickory, dogwood, hackberry (poor person's elm)... Something like that would make a fine sapling bow.  The board route is probably the simplest way to get a decent bow though, and is a fine way to learn tillering without too many curveballs. 

Now, about these hickory boards at Menards... We don't have a Menards around here, so I'm relegated to red oak for my board bows (although they do work fine).  There is a Menards back up in Kansas though, so I'll have to add that to my list of things to check on my next trip back up to Manhappiness.  Thanks for the tip!

Offline JoJoDapyro

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #25 on: October 30, 2014, 10:25:33 am »
Rawhide could be obtained from a rawhide dog bone - for 3 -6$, more than enough to back a bow.  Try to get one that doesn't look superthick, and looks to not have a lot ofholes.
would a dog bone be long enough?

I have used dog bone for string knocks and a handle wrap. It is very THICK. And once you soak one you more than likely wont give your dog another one. There is a bunch of rawhide in one. Gives me a gut ache just thinking about eating all that! I am sure if you soaked it, stretched it out flat, let it dry and sand about half of the thickness off it could be used. But it would be a lot of work. My opinion is that it would be more cost effective to just buy a big piece of thinner stuff.
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Offline Jax666

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #26 on: October 31, 2014, 07:52:30 am »
Rawhide could be obtained from a rawhide dog bone - for 3 -6$, more than enough to back a bow.  Try to get one that doesn't look superthick, and looks to not have a lot ofholes.
would a dog bone be long enough?

I have used dog bone for string knocks and a handle wrap. It is very THICK. And once you soak one you more than likely wont give your dog another one. There is a bunch of rawhide in one. Gives me a gut ache just thinking about eating all that! I am sure if you soaked it, stretched it out flat, let it dry and sand about half of the thickness off it could be used. But it would be a lot of work. My opinion is that it would be more cost effective to just buy a big piece of thinner stuff.
If I can find raw hide at a saddle shop or Tandy locally that's great, but with raw hid the shipping would not be outrageous so if I did order through the mail I would feel better than ordering wood. How thick should the rawhide be?

Online Pat B

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #27 on: October 31, 2014, 11:08:51 am »
Deer or goat are the best, thin and strong.
Make the most of all that comes and the least of all that goes!    Pat Brennan  Brevard, NC

Offline bubby

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #28 on: October 31, 2014, 11:09:39 am »
Get the stuff for drum heads if you order it, if you have any trade goods post for some on the tradeing post
failure is an option, everyone fails, it's how you handle it that matters.
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Offline jayman448

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Re: Kit bows
« Reply #29 on: October 31, 2014, 12:49:47 pm »
I backed one with drywall tape and its still goin strong. I know there are sites that sell kits. 3rivers for example
« Last Edit: November 02, 2014, 05:37:59 pm by jayman448 »