Bow length NTN versus draw length?

[BrokenArrow]

I am a fan of smaller bows and have the following sizes and types of staves;
52 inch osage
57 inch osage
60 inch hackberry.
My true draw length is between 24 and 26 inches and not that AMO measurement.

I would like to know from experience what the average bow length NTN is for these types of woods is for a 24, 25 and 26 inch draw using a handle that is 1.5 inches thick and 1 1/4 inches wide? Also static tips versus no static tips.

Thanks

[wizardgoat]

It really depends on what style of bow you want to make.
your 52" osage could get 25" draw easy with a bendy handle.
a good rule to go by is draw length X2, but you need to add your non
bending parts, and its always good to add a couple more inches if your new to it all. For example, 25" draw length x2 is 50". If you have a stiff handle of 4" and 2" fades, theres an extra 8" so your bow stave would need to be 58"
Of course everyone has their own formulas, but this one works for me.
im more into short bows with bendy handles, so any of your staves would do fine.
3 bows at once? You should start with one, post pics and let the real pros help you through it on here

[Pat B]

Under perfect conditions, twice the draw length. But remember at this draw length ..."a bow fully drawn is 9/10th broken".

[BrokenArrow]

When you speak of draw length for primitive bows do you mean from the inside of the nock to the belly (handle) or the back of the bow (outside).
When people record the poundages at the number of inches do they typically use the AMO standard on primative bows?
Thanks

[wizardgoat]

Inside of nock to the back of the bow. Your poundage and draw length are whatever
you make your bow to be. I never take bows I shoot to 28"
My true draw length is 25.5, so I tiller to 26" and record my poundage

[bradsmith2010]

the lighter the bow you have a little more wiggle room on what the draw could be,, most the time the bow is a little wider in relation to the weight,,, for example at 1 1/2 wide a 30# bow would be relatively wider,, than the same width bow at 60#,, so that will factor in your design

[huisme]

I made a 44" black locust bow that drew to 23" for a couple hundred shots before it started comaining and I dropped to 22". Everything here has sounded spot on, +1s all around-- though I always measure to the belly of the handle for everything, not the back, and I'm not sure why I wouldn't 

[wizardgoat]

i measure to the back, because the back of the bow doesn't change from bow to bow.
My bendy handle bows are only 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick, and stiff handles  around 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 so measuring to the belly would be a little inconsistent. To each their own

[SLIMBOB]

huisme, I think it's a matter of preference.  For me, my draw length (ideally) remains the same on most of the bows I shoot except for a few shorties.  My arrow length will vary depending on depth of the handle.  I am simply interested in how long the arrow needs to be when I am at full draw and that measurement is from the back of the bow. 

[huisme]

Huh. I guess making as many different handles as I, with multiple inch variances, the distance from bow to string is just more important.

[bradsmith2010]

from the back is pretty standard

[koan]

The 52"er might be pushing it abit for a stiff handle and tips but would be fine for a bendy out to 26"...but i would want it to be a purty clean piece .. I will never agree with "the standard" of measuring draw from the back of your bow.. Thats just fine for arrow leangth but not the true bend in your bow. To me the only "true and consistant" measurement in your draw lenght is from crook of hand to anchor point..let the "theories" commence, lol... Brian

[Chadwick]

Back of the bow to nock throat is draw length. Stiff/non-stiff handles make a difference for how it feels, but you can measure from the back of the bow.
I have a sinew-backed 42" vine maple which I pull to 27". I had to flip the tips a bit for the string to stay on. It is wonderful, as long as you don't mind a ton of stack!
I've also shot moose and black bear with 52" stiff-handled osage bows, both with flipped tips. These bows work the wood in ways which appear non-friendly. Nowadays, trying to conserve wood (and staves), I'd make 52" bows bendy-handled and make them 60" before going with a stiff handle. Decide how many staves you want to burn, trying to get bows that work! Let us know how it goes.
Michael

[bradsmith2010]

its just a way of measuring and not a rule ,,,, ,for example if you draw 28 to the  hand with a certain bow,, now add 2 inches depth to the handle for fun,, if you draw 28 inches to your hand,, the bow will be drawing that same arrow two more inches,, the limbs will be moving more,,etc,, yes you are still drawing 28 inches,to your hand, but that bow would now need a 30 inch arrow,, if you increased the handle depth another inch,, then the bow would need a 31 inch arrow to back of tip,, so the bow would be working harder again,, even though the measurement to your hand would not reflect that,, I was a professional bow maker for many years,, and if a client wanted the bow to be 58@28,, I would measure from the back of bow so there was no confusion,,that being said,, any way you want to measure your bow that works for you is great,,

[lebhuntfish]

The 52"er might be pushing it abit for a stiff handle and tips but would be fine for a bendy out to 26"...but i would want it to be a purty clean piece .. I will never agree with "the standard" of measuring draw from the back of your bow.. Thats just fine for arrow leangth but not the true bend in your bow. To me the only "true and consistant" measurement in your draw lenght is from crook of hand to anchor point..let the "theories" commence, lol... Brian

I'm with ya Brian! And I've tried it both ways. Patrick