It's hard to tell from the picture, but did you taper your width right out of the fades, or did you go parallel for a portion, then taper to the tips?
If you began your width taper right at the fades (pyramid style), then I would caution you against tapering the thickness. I have done that before on strict pyramid bows, and when the thickness is also tapered, the near handle wood doesn't bend enough while the tips bend too much and it winds up overstressing the middle of the limb and causes a bad hinge that's hard to fix...
Oddly enough, when I did this before, I tapered the limb from 5/8" to 7/16" and I put a tape measure on the spot where it hinged, and it was exactly 1/2" thick. I felt like the wood was trying to tell me something, so I started making all of them a consistent 1/2" thick from fade to tip. Over the course of tillering, you're going to wind up thinning the tips a little bit for a good circular tiller, but to try to pre-taper the thickness with a bandsaw from 5/8" to 1/2" is a bit too much - at least in my experience.
At any rate, never stop making sawdust. The only way to really learn is to "do." I'm the type of guy who has to build a bow purposefully "wrong" so that I can visually see why things happen the way that they do - I've broken MANY bows this way...
It also teaches me what conventions never to break, what conventions can be broken, and what conventions can be bent. But that's the fun of this hobby - it's a process of ongoing improvement, and always a learning experience!
