Cut too deep with drawknife?

[(bow)Hunter]

This is my 3rd bow and I'm shooting for #50-60 pounds at 30 inches, my first two cracked while tillering (rookie mistakes) so I'm really hoping this one works. I'm going for a pyramid style with hickory. Half inch thick with 1.75 inches at the fades, probably 66 in NTN. Unfortunately while thinning out to get to half an inch, my drawknife picked up a big chunk and I'm hoping it's still salvageable... Any help would be awesome, still relatively new to self-bowing and I really want to make one that I can actually shoot!

[Pat B]

Post pics please.  A rasp would be a better choice for reducing the thickness than a draw knife. IMO

[(bow)Hunter]

My photo isn't attaching does anyone know how to get smaller resolution I guess?... It's three gashes mid-limb in the bow each about 1/16th inch deep, <1/8 inch wide and 1.5 inches long

[BOWMAN53]

you can do an eiffle tower type of taper.

[Badger]

   If the gashes are running longwise instead of across the limb it may not affect performance but look a little bad. Instead of going for a thickess I would recomend you remove wood to meet the tiller you are looking for. A rasp would be a good choice of tools right now, I like a spokeshave for hickory and a rasp.

[Badger]

  Make sure you have bevel down on your draw knife, it will help avoid tear outs.

[(bow)Hunter]

Badger! You hit the nail on the head, that's the term I was looking for... So do you mean turning the drawknife upside-down? Yes and they are running longwise. Thank you for the advice!

[Sidmand]

also, with a drawknife, if the knife is cutting deep and tearing out wood, then turn yourself around 180 degrees and try to draw it the other direction.  I screwed up a couple of boards because I didn't pay attention to the way the grain was running and I didn't turn around.  My guess is that the grain will either force the knife "up" and allow for nice shallow draws and long curls, or "down" and dig the knife in, causing tear outs.

[George Tsoukalas]

Too short at 66" for a 30" draw.
Sidmand is right on. If the dknife cuts deep turn yourself around and attack the wood from the other side.
Never used a dknife bevel down.
Also, the grain has to be really straight on a board stressed so much.
Jawge

[(bow)Hunter]

Jawge, is there anyway I could fix that? I'm 19 and have really lengthy arms haha, could I maybe have a really low brace height? I'm guessing that would compromise some draw weight though? Really any help would be great since I'm still a beginner, I'll post some pictures when I can figure out how to get them smaller size (they're like 900 KB) and any constructive criticism would be awesome as well

[Pat B]

Tiller that bow out to 28" and do the best tillering job you can after making the repair. Don't worry about the weight on this one, learn from your mistake and make the best of the situation. Your next bow will be better than this one if you do your part.
 If your draw length is truly 30" make your bows at least 68" and 70" would be better.   After you have built a few bows you will probably be able drop the length some and even shorten your draw length by changing your shooting style if you decided to go that route.

[George Tsoukalas]

bowhunter, I agree with Pat. Tiller to 28" and enjoy. Even 28" is a stretch for a newcomer.
Start another.
Jawge

[Badger]

  Just curious, how tall are you?

[(bow)Hunter]

Badger - I'm 6'1!
Another question... It's a board bow so all my edges are sharp right now, should I round the bow out (besides the handle) before I start tillering..? Or will that not make a difference?

[Pat B]

I continually round edges as I tiller along. When the edges get sharp I round them. It might net be necessary on the belly but I do it anyway.