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Author Topic: smooth on  (Read 2782 times)

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Offline doulosparachristos

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smooth on
« on: August 07, 2014, 10:54:14 pm »
Hey guy; just a quick question. I have been thinking of switching up my glue lately from TB3 to Smooth on ea 40 to see what I like best. The question I have is whether I need to score the gluing surfaces or not. I thought maybe you guys can help me with this, there is alot of conflicting information on the web. I thought I should wait for the experts advice before I waste wood. Thanks.
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Offline CustomArcher15

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Re: smooth on
« Reply #1 on: August 08, 2014, 12:37:03 am »
I hope your ok with this but I am going to add on to that question because I have been wondering how good it is for glueing tips on a bow? And if you glue them on and heat it(recommended on bottle) to cure, will it soften glue if it was a laminated bow or could you heat it at a lower temp then you cured the bow at(even if you used same glue to make bow?)
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Offline bow101

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Re: smooth on
« Reply #2 on: August 08, 2014, 12:41:31 am »
Of course this is 'bout primitive and although even TB glue is man made, why don't you guys try G20..? Supposed to be a really good epoxy and no heat curing needed.
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Offline Buckeye Guy

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Re: smooth on
« Reply #3 on: August 08, 2014, 08:11:34 am »
Smooth on is an old tried and true glue !
Should be no problems heat or not
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Offline lesken2011

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Re: smooth on
« Reply #4 on: August 08, 2014, 08:16:40 am »
I have used TBII & III, Unibond 800, with great success, but finally got around to smooth on. I think I like it best. I have started using a thickness planer for backings and tapers and the surface is pretty slick when it comes out of the planer. I have made a couple of glue ups with the smooth on straight off the planer with no additional prep or rough up, and so far no problems. I have roughed up the surface with 36-80 grit sandpaper in the past, though.
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Offline kiltedcelt

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Re: smooth on
« Reply #5 on: August 09, 2014, 12:41:53 am »
The heat curing for Smooth On only ensures the strongest bond possible. You still get an optimal bond if you let it cure at room temps above 70F for 24 hours or more. Most guys just stick it in a heat box to get it done more quickly. I've used it numerous times before to glue up a bow and then I use it again for tip overlays. However, I just glue the overlays on and let them cure at room temp. I've always just figured that you get the stronger bond by curing with heat and the most important place for that is in the limbs and handle. I've also heard that some guys will do the major limb glue up at the higher temperature then do a lower temp glue up later for tip overlays.
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