Concept for using a short working limb in a recurve

[Prarie Bowyer]

I had a few pieces of Osage (last year)that I resawed with a knot in them.  I hate to waste them so after the ""v" splice I'm at about 54".  There will be a riser with arrow shelf to brace the splice. 

I'm thinking to splice in some heat bent static recurves with a 2"  "w" splice and dowel pin it at a section that is about 7/8"  wide.  My clamped mock up is 66" long tip to tip.  I was planing to deflex the bow around the riser.  I know this gives away energy but I gain the safety of a long draw.

My main concern is that with the already short fade riser I've got a max of 20" of working limb.  The guy I'm making it for wants a 60 lb bow.  Think this could make it?    If I could get a short working limb length design to work I have a pile of firewood that becomes viable bows again.


One tip gas a small crack and a bug hole.  I'll trim that off if I go with the design.


Or possibly there is enough to flip the tips a bit and call it enough.   That increases my working length but due to the splice there must be a riser.

What do you guys think?

[PatM]

There is nothing unusual about this design at all. Totally feasible. Use a v-splice rather than a w and forget about the dowel. It's not necessary.

[mikekeswick]

Yes a simple v splice is the way to go. You could also have v spliced a handle section in as well. For future info you could make it 12 inches. 4 inch for each splice and a 4 inch grip section.
V splices are fine in bending limbs.

[Prarie Bowyer]

Thanks mike.  I have "V" spliced the seam in the center that is why it will have a static riser section.. and the friend i'm making it for likes them. 

I love "v" splices but the only reason I wanted to use a "W" is becaue it increases the gluing surface. 

So then a 20" working limb in Osage will be fine ? ?   Guess there is only one way to find out.

[blackhawk]

I can't count how many times I've had working limbs waaaaay shorter than 20",and using more diff woods than I can count on both hands and then some....its fine if designed and executed properly...and when done right inducing deflex in the handle does the opposite of what you think

Oh..almost forgot to say.... Google is your friend!!!! 

[redhawk55]

I´ve done some osage bows with max. 14" working limb(mollie- design), 50- 60lbs at 23- 28", spliced at the handle. It depends on the quality of your osage.
Do it, Michael

[bubby]

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,21987.msg298768.html#msg298768
a splice isn't even necessary check this one out

[Prarie Bowyer]

Oh sure I guess I could do that.  Historically they were spliced in.  I'm going to be backing this bow .  With a maple strip backing that transition needs to be clean. 

I have to splice the limbs togeather from shorter wood.  Or I should say I chose to.

[bubby]

I know that syahs are normally spliced in with a v splice, just wanted to give you another option

[Prarie Bowyer]

I know that syahs are normally spliced in with a v splice, just wanted to give you another option

As I'm thinking about it I'm liking it more and more.  That is neat little bow. 

[Prarie Bowyer]

  gah. I'm paralyzed with indecision.  I'm tempted to try and steam the tips up then add on brush knocks.  Not deep. 

I cut the bent maple for a 2" 'v' splice. Then stared at the back for an hour after cutting the pattern for the tips like the bow above.


Glued on the riser.  That is a given no matter what other options I choose.