First Bow

[taccovert4]

I'll preface this by saying that there's probably already a topic on it buried somewhere in the forum, I'm just not locating it.

I would like to get into bowmaking (bowyering?) along with the archery that comes with it.  Something about shooting a bow made with my own hands is far more appealing to me than shooting rifles and pistols, plus I already shoot enough of those for work as it is. 

I live in Eastern NC, and so I have a few questions about getting started in this craft:

1)  What kind of bow should I start with?  A long term goal is to make a longbow in the #120+ range, as I'm a fairly stout guy and the grip and back/shoulder/arm strength shouldn't be a problem.  However I figure that a heavy warbow like that isn't what I need to start out on.

2)  What woods should I use?  Locally there is the ubiquitous pine (which is worthless I figure), pecan, the occasional walnut, american sweetgum, white oak and live oak, along with a few other species that I can't think of right off.  Also should I angle more for a sapling, or for a branch from a mature tree?

3)  What tools/jigs will I need?  I have access to a decently equipped woodshop, though I'm sure that there are some specialist items I'll need to get and some jigs to make.

4)  Pointers and tips and things I'm forgetting.....

[bubby]

if you are into warbows maybe post over there on the warbow pg, you could start with a elb and work your way up

[taccovert4]

Well, it was more of a matter of not knowing if the warbow was the best way to start, or if there was another bow type that would be better for someone who has no bowmaking experience.  I'm putting a heavy warbow as more of a 5th or 6th bow goal, though of course I'll try for it sooner if possible.

[wildman]

Hard to go wrong with a bend in the middle Hickory d bow start out fairly long. Easy wood easy design high success rate for a first bow IMOP. Goodluck plenty of great info on here.

[half eye]

Hey Tactical,
     here is a few "numbers" on the woods you mentioned.
1. Sweetgum     .52 sg      82 (work to max load as relative comparison to the others units n/relative)
2. White oak      .68 sg      102
3. live oak          .88 sg      130
4. Pecan (hick)   .66 sg      95

So in order of wood attributes the order would be 3/2/4/1. If your main goal is to arrive at an English warbow (heavy weight long bow). Start by making some heavier hunting bows say in the 60# to 70# so you can learn the techniques of making the "D" tillered bows (has a full draw shape of the letter D).

Personally, I make short circle tiller "D" bows in the style of Eastern Woodland Native Americans. Perhaps some of our English bowyers could help with specs for the "long bow" layout. These bows all bend into the handle area so if you are thinkin a long bow with a stiff handle, that would be a whole other can of worms.

Aint no "magic" to the tools part. A well equipped wood shop will make a very nice bow. Rasps, planes, files and scrapers all depend on how you choose to accomplish the goal. To me it is no different between tool choices (not a hand tool snob) but I do use some hand tools cause it fits my way of doing it, is all.

On the wood size you may wish to go a little bigger in Dia. to allow yourself some slack, in layout dimensions. Saplings make great bows but the margin of error is a whole lot smaller. Hope it helps ya some, and I'm sure other fellas will chime in that more experience at long bows than I do.
rich

welcome aboard, and just curious....military or thin blue line?

[Bogaman]

Welcome to the forum. Some of the basic tools are hatchet, drawknife, scraper, ferriers file, four in one rasp, chain saw file and a small (6") straight edge. Power tools are helpful if your limited on time, but I like using the basic stuff when I can.
Hickory or oak are two good woods to start with, I'm sure you have both in your area. Try to get a larger tree instead of a sapling. If possible find someone near you who is willing to show you the ropes.
As mentioned above, start with a 60-70 style English longbow.
Check out some of the build a longs on here, most will cover some of the basic stuff.

[taccovert4]

Thank you guys for all the help.  It's certainly going to be a learning curve.

[scp]

Flat bows are a lot easier. If you can pull over 100 pounds, just get a well seasoned oak stave that is six feet long, 3 inch wide and 3/4 inch thick and start bending it. If it does not bend easily, just thin it to 1/2 inch thick except about 12 inches in the middle. Good luck.

[taccovert4]

I'm pretty certain I can work up to over 100 pounds without any trouble, in my line of work I spend a lot of my mornings in the gym to make sure I stay ahead of the local punks, so pulling slightly over 200lbs, pull-ups (I weigh in at 245) and shoulder pressing 205 is already fairly regular for me.  Technique is different, but that can be learned.

As far as getting mature wood goes, peak season is about to start in a couple of months.  Pecan trees and live oaks are favorites for hurricanes to drop, and it appears that either makes good stave material.  A chain saw and doing the "helping old ladies" thing that I already do and I could probably get a few years worth of Pecan (hickory'ish) in an afternoon.  Now I'm kind of sad I didn't notice this craft a few years ago....my parent's house had a white oak with one very large limb that was ramrod straight without any big branches for about 10'....used to house the swing.....of course it's gone now, hurricane took it, but I'll bet that would have been just about right to get started on.

Oh and Half Eye....both.  Corps and Cops.....

[SLIMBOB]

Welcome Sir.  Glad to have ya.  Pecan and White Oak are both very good.  Looking forward to hearing what you come up with.

[taccovert4]

Thanks Bob.  To my knowledge I don't have much of a local market for 60-80" staves, so I'll have to cut and cure my own as I can.  I have another woodworking project that's going to need quite a bit of oak for the table-top.  Would you guys say that starting off with lumber is worth it?  From what I've read, maybe an oak backed with maple?  Thinking of a way that I can get one started and learn the important bits before I get in on a more extensive project.  I've got a friend that's graduating next year from law school who shoots, and I could always give it to her.  Thus the thought that doing something simpler and lighter weight, 25-45lbs would be a better way to learn all of the steps and techniques before I go playing around with heavy bows. 

[SLIMBOB]

I would go self bow for the first one.  Eliminate the glue up element and focus on stave selection, design, build and tiller.  Lots to learn and all fundamental to the craft.

[Wooden Spring]

Hmmm, based on your posts, sounds like you live in either Havelock, or J-action-ville. Am I close?

If that's true, then try out Atlantic Veneer in Beaufort, I think... You shouldn't have any issue finding anything there from hickory to teak. From there, start out making a basic flat bow. (look up "The Bent Stick," it's a good book that got me started) Once you get a working bow under your belt, then you can start experimenting with dimensions to reach your goal.

Bowmaking is alot like potato chips - you can't have just one!

[Wooden Spring]

Take a look at the picture below. It's not "the" way to build a bow, but it documents how I do it.

(remember, dimensions can be finicky things, they'll get you close, but don't expect every piece of wood to act just as any other)

I've not made anything over a 60-65 pounder yet, but like I said before, get you a working bow under your belt first, then start playing with dimensions and you'll get to your goal. And when you do, POST PICTURES!!!!!

[blackhawk]

Flat bows are a lot easier. If you can pull over 100 pounds, just get a well seasoned oak stave that is six feet long, 3 inch wide and 3/4 inch thick and start bending it. If it does not bend easily, just thin it to 1/2 inch thick except about 12 inches in the middle. Good luck.

I'm sorry but this is very poor advice....if you were to do that it wood be hinged badly,and if trying to make it 100#'s wood surely break,and could possibly injure someone...