Cool Saw Marks

[PeteF]

I think I might keep these saw burn marks cause I'm thinkin they look pretty cool. Started to cut this board out and after some sanding I thought I might keep them lol. In case anyones interested the specs for this pyramid bow are 68" NtN, 4 1/2" handle, 2 1/4" fades, the limbs taper from 2" to 3/8" and they are 1/2" thick. I will be happy with anywhere from 45-55# @28 wherever it ends up.



And the rest of the bows progress



Ill post

[PatM]

You'll need to say bye to them if you want that handle to stay on.

[PeteF]

They are burn marks. I did some sanding already, and if you feel it its smooth. The rest of the belly had them too, but went away after some sanding. I could continue to do so and they will go away if needed be. What would be the reason for the handle to pop off anyway?

[Blaflair2]

U need to leave a thicker "island" for the handle block. If it bends at all it's going to come off.

[Hamish]

The handle will probably be fine, but burn marks on a gluing surface are not best practice as the burn can mean the glue doesn't sink into the wood properly and provide a strong bond.
                   Hamish.

[PatM]

Wait, it looks like there is an island of wood that the handle lams are sitting on. It just looked a bit like there was a layer of the same wood as the main part of the stave because of the abrupt angle to the fades.
 The handle will stay on but the fades need more curve to them than those lumpy steps, if only for aesthetics.
 Just doing that will get rid of the burn marks.

[bubby]

the handle will be fine, but you need to smooth out the transition in the fades, and she will lose most of the burn marks that way

[mikekeswick]

Is that four separate lams you've used to build the handle up?
Or three on top of the original board?

[DarkSoul]

You still need to tiller this bow, so you will have to take wood off the belly of the bow in order to get a decent tiller. So you cannot keep these marks. If you like this pattern, just use a sharpie or some paint to  create similar markings on the finished bow.

[Badger]

  I think you need to change your saw blade so it doesn't burn through the wood. Saw marks on a bow will only look good to you.

[Peacebow_Coos]

+1 Badger except Me, I'd draw them on though after I made sure that baby was pulling even, but I worry about looks less than functionality!  They would be a nice start for some artwork.  The ol'e table saw burn! 

[PeteF]

They are 3 - 1/4" pieces glued to the original thickness of the red oak 1X. So its 3/4" of solid wood followed by 3 - 1/4" pieces of maple and oak. Did the cutting on a dull band saw, as well as the table saw as you can see lol so the fades didn't come out as curved as I wanted them to. Lesson learned! The last pyramid bow I did needed hardly any tillering, so I was hoping this would go close to the same way. Although its probably not good practice to start a bow with a hope of how it will go lol. Good idea though DarkSoul that If I have to get rid of the marks to draw new ones as a start to a cool design

[hunterbob]

I like the looks of the marks . To bad it wasn't in the wood itself.  My opinion is you should of never had saw marks in it anyhow . I do all mine with hand tools. I would take a rasp to those faded to.

[blackhawk]

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder, but theres no beauty seen there in my eyes...no offense 

[PatM]

You can't expect a finished fade with a bandsaw even if you can execute a nice curve. Don't shortcut your bows to death.
 A few minutes with a rasp and scraper will bring them back  into a nice profile. It sounds like you want to just cut out a bow and hope it's pretty much done.