arrow weight

[wazabodark]

So I'm trying to make my first set of arrows for my 30# recurve, but I think they're too heavy for my bow.I'm using Doug fir shafts because I can get the wood for free by using drop-offs from rafter material. The first arrow I tried was cut to the length I wanted when I started bare shaft tuning (i don't have a spine tester). That's 31" from nock to bottom of point. I wound up sanding it down until it wouldn't stay straight anymore. So I went with a longer shaft (33" ntp).I think I have the arrow spines correctly as the nock is centered on the target at 5, 10, and 15 paces. The problem is that the arrow weighs 421.7 gr, and that's without the 125gr field point. Is this too heavy for my bow? If so, can anyone recommend a lighter wood that I can find on the cheap (free). And, as an aside, have any of you ever tried crepe myrtle shoots? They look like they'd be perfect for the task. Thanks- Ronnell

[Pat B]

What diameter shaft are you using? For a 30# bow 5/16" or even 1/4" dowels should be the right diameter.

[wazabodark]

Well, I started with barrel tapered shafts 11/32" to23/64 in 10" for the point. 5/16 to23/64 in 9" for the nock. But, like I said, the first arrow I sanded down so much that I didn't trust it anymore, and the second I think is spined right, but it's too long for my draw (33"ntp, I draw about 28 1/2"), and too heavy for the bow. Will Doug fir hold up at smaller diameters? I've got a lot of it and making smaller arrows isn't a problem. Or should I be looking at hardwoods? I also have quite a bit of straight grained spruce. Ver tight, very straight grain. Would that hold up?

[Pat B]

The fir and spruce should make good 5/16" arrow shafts. Use the straightest grain you can get. I draw 26" and cut most of my arrows to 30". I think a longer arrow gets around the bow better.

[Dan K]

I have a 30# shorty that shoots 5/16 Doug fir with 125 gr points all day long. I believe they are 30" long. I'll check for sure when I get home. If free is what you want, you may concider cutting shoots in the forest, letting them season for three months and make all the arrows you want. Once you have them straight, knock and shoot em to make sure they match your bow before you put a lot of work into fletches and points. Any fruit tree, cane or dog wood will make a good arrow. There's a few threads on here that talk about all the various shoots people have used.

[wazabodark]

Thanks,guys. But what about the weight? What would be optimal fora 30#, cut past center re-curve at 28 1/2" draw. I'm asking because the second arrow I tuned spined correctly, but it seemed to move awfully slow. As it is right now it will weigh about 550 grn. after I put the point on. Seems heavy for a 30# bow.

[kleinpm]

Your probably only going to get so much speed from a 30 pound bow, but you can play with tip weight and taper.

Barrell tapering, like you already did, is the best way to reduce weight without effecting spine.

If you reduce the tip weight, you will have to reduce the spine of the arrow to compensate. I shoot 70 grain field tips because they most closely match my stone hunting point weight.

I think if you found a combination of length and spine that shoots well from your bow you are doing pretty good. A cut past center bow should be able to shoot a wide range of spines.

Patrick

[Dan K]

I am no expert but I can give you some specs from the arrows I've shot through my 30 pound bow. My arrows are 5/16 28" long. Untipped they weigh 240 grains. Tipped with 100 grain field points (that one weighed in at 353 grains). All are Doug fir. Carson with Echo Archery is a PA member at an expert at matching arrows to bows. Hopefully he'll chime in!

[Carson (CMB)]

The 5/16" shafts that I have are very tight grain fir and are spined 20-30#.  As kids shafts they are not subject to excise tax, and so they are much less expensive than shafts over 30#.   They are a buck each.  You can get them from me or directly from Surewood Shafts. 

You will get a lighter mass from the spruce.  Port Orford Cedar would be better even.  Dont know about crepe myrtle, but the rightshoots should give you a lower finished mass.

It is tough to match fir to light weight bows unless you drop to 5/16" parallel shafts and this requires very tight and straight grain to do so and have a safe arrow.