Hackberry Bow Progress Pics

[Gaust]

I wanted to post these photos showing the progress of my first self-bow, from a hackberry stave, 68" ntn, 45#@28".  I don't have a full draw photo today, but will post one soon.  These two photos show the bow at rest after final tillering, and after being shot 50 times, and a photo at full brace.  I've got ahead of myself staining the handle area but I have yet to add the tung oil finish. I tried to be extra careful with the any more tillering because I'm already at my desired draw weight.  I know I will probably lose a little more as I finish sanding it, and as I shoot it.  I have tempered the belly once already and have thought about doing it again, but I did not want to keep stressing the belly wood.  As you can see, I have a little string follow.   Comments are welcomed.
George

[okie64]

Your tiller looks good at brace height. Looks like the right limb is a little stronger and your stringfollow doesnt look too bad for hackberry. Did you add reflex when you heat treated it? If not I would suggest doing that on your next hackberry. I usually add around 2.5-3" with hackberry and end up with just a tad of reflex or flat profile.

[SLIMBOB]

I agree with okie64, but would add that if it were me, I would do it on this one.  If you scraped away the darkened wood during tillering, temper again and add your reflex to this one.  I would be conservative myself.  Maybe an inch or so as I temper.

[Gaust]

Thanks, okie64, for your comment.  The right limb had some ring islands that I had to deal with and it was a challenge getting it to match up with the left limb.  My tillering skills on that limb was tested for sure.  It's now my bottom limb and I imagine the tiller will change over time.

SLIMBOB, As I tillered it down, I did scrape all the dark wood off.  But how many times can this wood take the heat?  I am tempted to do it again.
George

[PEARL DRUMS]

Do it again George, its fine.

[PEARL DRUMS]

With bows I plan to temper Ill sometimes just heat them to shape and get them floor tillered perfectly, then give them a tempering on the same form I used to shape it. Seems to work good for me.

[SLIMBOB]

I remember the islands now that you mention it.  What did you end up with on them?

[Gaust]

SLIMBOB, the islands have been mostly scraped away.  They were stiff, thicker spots and it helped the limb bend when I did that.  I basically just did what Eric's gizmo told me to do.

Chris, toasting No.2 is been completed.  Thanks for your comment.
George

[Gaust]

Thought I'd show the results.  After clamping it down in a slight reflex, I lightly toasted the belly.  It straightened out to some extent as you can see, and that's after exercising it some on the tillering tree.  We'll see if it holds its line after I shoot it.  Checked it for mass and it's now 23.85 oz.  Also, thought I'd show you some padauk tips.  Like dipping it in blood.  Comments welcomed.
George

[BOWMAN53]

padauk is beautiful wood

[Gaust]

Thinking of adding some reflex to the tips, too.  Would it be okay to use dry heat?

[Onebowonder]

With your tip overlays glued on already, you may need to be mindful of applying heat to them.  Some glues do not like it much...  Which glue did you use???


OneBow

 

[Gaust]

Onebow, I used Gorilla Glue.  Suppose to be temperature resistant.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Go for it. Keep direct heat from that last 2" of limb tip. Your not actually bending that portion anyway so no need to heat it up. Concentrate the heat about 3-4" from the tips, it swill spread within the wood and work fine. I use Loctite Professional and steamed statics in a yew bow with overlays, and they held.

[DarkSoul]

I've wrapped bow tips in aluminum foil before heat treating. I used super glue and wasn't sure how heat resistant that would be. Wrapping the tips in foil worked perfectly, as is clearly visible by the distinct line of coloration. This also adds a nice touch, I think.