Tru Oil woes...

[toomanyknots]

Thanks again guys for all the wisdom, it is much appreciated! As always, I would be screwed without it,  .

[okie64]

The stuff I use is formbys tung oil finish and Im not sure exactly what ingredients are in it. Im pretty sure its not pure tung oil but it works great for me and it smells good too

[PEARL DRUMS]

Same as Jamey, and I use Minwax brand. The wax I use is Johnsons paste wax in the yellow can. You can add as many coats as you want anytime. I seal with a coat or two of BE shellac first. Then a few coats of tung oil, then sign, then several more coats of tung oil. Let it dry a few days. And put as much wax on as you chose.

[Gordon]

I seal with a coat or two of BE shellac first. Then a few coats of tung oil, then sign, then several more coats of tung oil.

I don't think you are using pure Tung oil. Pure Tung oil is a penetrating finish - it would not work over shellac.

[Hrothgar]

Pure tung oil is hard to find and pretty expensive. What most companies sell as tung oil is a mixture of urethane, linseed oil and mineral spirits. That should be varnish, not urethane, sorry.

[toomanyknots]

I seal with a coat or two of BE shellac first. Then a few coats of tung oil, then sign, then several more coats of tung oil.

I don't think you are using pure Tung oil. Pure Tung oil is a penetrating finish - it would not work over shellac.

Yeah, the stuff I have used so far is the pure stuff, uncut, and it is basically just a thick oil finish, not a lacquer or anything. It takes a long time to cure, like weeks, and always dries to a dull matte finish.

The stuff I use is formbys tung oil finish and Im not sure exactly what ingredients are in it. Im pretty sure its not pure tung oil but it works great for me and it smells good too

Welp, you sold me on the "it smells good" part, . I will try that out for sure, I always thought it was one of those finishes that choke the crap out of you when you try to use it.

Same as Jamey, and I use Minwax brand. The wax I use is Johnsons paste wax in the yellow can. You can add as many coats as you want anytime. I seal with a coat or two of BE shellac first. Then a few coats of tung oil, then sign, then several more coats of tung oil. Let it dry a few days. And put as much wax on as you chose.

Thanks for recommendation pearl (and yes I do remember you telling me to try some like 3 other times now), I swear I will pick me up a can next time I am at home depot, lol.

So, about straining the little things outta tru oil, what should I strain it into? I am guessing I will just use a glass jar. The stuff in mine right now are so small, you can't see them until the finish is dry, and it don't look great. They're pretty small. Man, I just don't wanna pitch this big thing of tru oil, it is darn near full and cost me like 35 bucks.

[Bryce]

Store your Tru-oil upside down. And your less likely to get chunks.

[Gordon]

Store your Tru-oil upside down. And your less likely to get chunks.

+1

[PEARL DRUMS]

I seal with a coat or two of BE shellac first. Then a few coats of tung oil, then sign, then several more coats of tung oil.

I don't think you are using pure Tung oil. Pure Tung oil is a penetrating finish - it would not work over shellac.

No, Im not. I use Formbys and Minwax.

[koan]

I assume that the debri in tru-oil is the hardeners that have been exposed to air.. I hand rub mine on so i can feel those chunks you wont notice with a rag... That bein said, I recently tried the shellac 1st then tung oil and i love it. It is a satin like finish but seems to get glossy with more coats and rubbing with a clean cloth. I havent tried the paste wax yet tho.... Brian

[Don Case]

I use a tea strainer to screen out chunks. It's only about 3" diameter so you can't do large amounts but it gets all the crap out. I've used it to strain the paint for an airbrush so it's pretty fine.