Pine Resin and Charcoal Glue Recipe

[RidgeRunner]

My pine resin and charcoal glue never turns out right.
It is always to brittle.

Can someone please post a recipe (with quanties) of ingredients?

As I understand it oil or fat and some type of fiber are parts of the recipe.

I hope to use this to heft some steel arrow points.

Thanks
David

[wolfsire]

I'd too like to see some recipes.  I would think that different ones are good for different projects.

I have used some with oil, char dust and fiber on points, only to find it did not set hard enough.  Too much oil no doubt.  As I understnad it oil, or wax is to keep it from beeing too brittle.  I've used just resin and and char dust on points too.  Brittle and drys very fast, but has not broke yet.

Also, if someone can, please address the use of dung.  I undersand that from herbavores the residual fiber will add strength, but what about the other crap.  I'm not keen on using it, unless there are real advantages.  Even then, I would probably only use herbavore dung, although if carn/omni has advantages, I would like to know about it.

For that matter, what is the benefit of carbon/ash?

Thanks.

[Hillbilly]

If it's too brittle, put more charcoal powder in it, or add beeswax, fiber, and stuff. I usually just use pitch and powdered charcoal, if you get it mixed right, it works good-just experiment.

[wvfknapper]

I dont know a recipe but I always use chopped up dried grasses a little charcoal and a small amout of beeswax, just mix it until it looks thick,, it's stong stuff if mixed right.

wvflintknapper

[D. Tiller]

Drop the charcoal and use beeswax instead. Use just enough to make it a bit flexible. This makes a supper dupper hotmelt glue that is fantastic for hafting both arowheads and knife blades. Better than any other hot melt glues you can find on the shelf in stores!

Check out:

http://www.ginellames.fr/videos/flv_us.php?id=7&lang=us

http://www.ginellames.fr/videos/flv_us.php?id=8&lang=us

http://www.ginellames.fr/videos/flv_us.php?id=9&lang=us

That should just about do it!

David T

[wvfknapper]

What did he say   

wvflintknapper

[Ryan_Gill_HuntPrimitive]

i use  an empty minwax  1\2 pint can.
i fill the can about half way with pine resin
roughly 1- 1.5  tablespoons of wood ashes
roughly 1- 1.5  tablespoons of bear grease that has been thickened with wax (my bear grease is thickened to consistency of crisco vegtable shortening or a creamy peanut butter)

this works very well for me, i use it on trade points and stone points and as long as it is good and hot when i apply it it holds strong.

[Pat B]

What I use is about equal parts pitch, bees wax and charcoal powder or fine saw dust. The charcoal or saw dust adds body and the bees wax makes it less brittle.  The thing with herbivore dung is that it is full of fiber. In a dried state it is pretty inert. Dried rabbit or deer pellets are what I have heard to use.     Pat

[richpierce]

Cutler's resin by Chuck Burrows, a knifemaker of stout repute:
5 parts pitch
1 part beeswax (tallow can replace this-available from your butcher)
1 part filler (wood dust, ash, metal dust, etc)

I use ground charcoal for the filler.  I cook down dirty crusty barky pine pitch in a tin can with holes punched in the bottom and catch the strained drippings in another tin can.  Then add beeswax and then the filler, stirring with a clean split stick.  I let the mixture cool some and then I dip clean sticks in it (popcicle sized) till they load up with dollops of the resin, sorta like making tallow candles.  These can be stored forever, carried on a trip, etc.  When you need hot glue, heat everything before the fire, get that glue stick to dripping, and apply to the surfaces as needed.  Do all your sinewing later, obviously.

[RidgeRunner]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I have about a half gallon each of pine resin and bees wax.
Going to cook up some glue while I am off work for Chrismas.

Thanks
David

[nugget]

Can you use the pine sap in any state or does it have to be dry?. I collected some the other day , some of it is dry and crumbly and some of it is still a little moist.

[richpierce]

goopy is better in my limited experience because it has fewer impurities than some dried stuff that usually has bark, insects etc.  But it's all good.  I end up with about 1/2 to 1/4 the volume I started with after cooking and straining.

[Pat B]

I like to cook the pine pitch so the volatile oils evaporate off and them the pitch hardens as it cools. Pat

[michbowguy]

i scrape the white hard as a rock stuff off of old cuts and knots in the tree, i collect the syrupy stuff as ell and the musshy goobed up resin with the bark and bugs.

put it inside of a soup can with holes in the bottom of the can, and that sits inside of a tuna can to collect the now strained resin.

i cook this on a small cookie tin on the barbique or heater in garage, this keeps flare ups from happening.

after i think most of the resin is out of the bark and stuff from the soup can i slowly lift off with pliers.

then i stir it up and add a little beeswax, or beargrease

then i let it cook, not boil.

then i put it on a stick to cool and i check if it is too brittle,or runny.


then i either add hardwood ash,and or wood dust.

salt to taste!

ok, skip the last step.
mbg

[nugget]

Good deal . I will give it a try. Definetly outside. Don't want to burn the house down