Author Topic: Flint And steel  (Read 7848 times)

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Offline streamflyer

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Flint And steel
« on: January 12, 2014, 01:20:35 pm »
Hello all. I would like to learn how to use a flint and steel and make myself a kit to take with me backpacking and hunting. I was wondering where I might find a good steel. Is there anything in particular that I should look for or be aware of?

Offline Olanigw (Pekane)

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #1 on: January 12, 2014, 01:33:33 pm »
find yourself an old-school Nicholson file. Has to be high carbon . 
"Good enough" is the enemy of great
PN501018

Offline tipi stuff

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #2 on: January 12, 2014, 02:20:35 pm »
Olanigw is correct; any high carbon steel file will work. It is easy enough to pick up a cheap used one at a pawn shop. One of the things you might want to do if you use a file, is grind off the edges of the file so that you have a smooth edge. As you strike the flint and steel together, a small piece of hot steel will be shaved off. That is what you see as the sparks. It is easier to get this to work with a flat, smooth surface.

If you decide to buy a steel, there are quite a few places that sell them. They are easy to find on the internet. The place that first comes to my mind is Crazy Crow Trading Post.

You will need some charred material to catch your sparks on. Most people use 100% cotton cloth for this.  An old T-shirt or pair of boxers will foot the bill for this. Cut the material into long strips about 2 inches wide. Fold loosely, and place in an Altoids tin. Put the tin in the fire (a gas grill or propane torch will work), and set it sit until it quits smoking. Remove from heat, and let it sit for about 30 minutes before you open it. When you get ready to use your kit, remove a piece of charred cloth and place it so that you can direct a spark from your flint and steel onto the cloth. People do this in different ways, but I have been most successful by holding my flint in my left hand with a small piece of char cloth on top of the flint. I hold the cloth close to the striking edge with my thumb. I use a downward stroke with the striker in my right hand. I can get a spark to land on the cloth and the cloth will begin to smolder. Blow on the smoldering cloth and place into a small bundle of tinder such as grass. I like to use shredded cedar/ juniper bark for my tinder. Continue blowing into it, and it should light.

Once you master the use of char cloth, you can start using charred, punky wood for the same purpose. The wood is a little more difficult to use, but the technique is the same. I keep a strike a light bag tied to my quiver. The photo that I am attaching shows one of my strike a light bags, flint, steel, charred punk and a fire horn. The purpose of the horn it to snuff out the punk and preserve the thin, crusty layer of char that is needed to get the wood to ignite.

Offline KHalverson

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #3 on: January 12, 2014, 05:48:37 pm »
Hello all. I would like to learn how to use a flint and steel and make myself a kit to take with me backpacking and hunting. I was wondering where I might find a good steel. Is there anything in particular that I should look for or be aware of?

glenn


not trying to be a smart @$$.
consult with JW .
he will get ya headed in  the right way.

he helped me when I was struggling.
Kevin

Offline KrisDelger

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #4 on: January 12, 2014, 06:07:42 pm »
I usually use an old Nicoleson file, heat it up, split it into thinner pieces so I can make more than one steel out of it. Then get my bends in. Heat it up again to cherry red, quench it, then temper it so it doesn't shatter. Honestly you can get away with using the spine of a high carbon knife, or even using a high carbon file. Then it's a matter of flints that will throw sparks.
Just a young guy with a filing cabinet for a memory and a whole lot of useless information.

Offline stickbender

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #5 on: January 12, 2014, 06:57:49 pm »

     All of the above, and if you don't mind stepping a bit out of the purely primitive, you can use pure cotton balls, and saturate them in Vasoline, and store them in a Altoids, can, or other container, old film case, plastic baggie, etc.  And take one of those out, and pull it apart a bit to fluff it a bit, and put a spark to it, and you have flame. ;)  Learn to use the natural tinder also.  The inside of cedar, Juniper, cypress, etc. makes a nice tender, as was already said.  Just pull the inner pieces off the bark, and roll them in your hands, and they will break up, and twist, and become fuzzy, and powdery like, and will take a spark, and start to glow and smolder.  Same with various dry grasses. 

                                                                               Wayne







Offline nclonghunter

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2014, 08:20:17 pm »
If you have any muzzle loading rendevous in your area, sutlers will be selling steels that you can test and purchase. Most blacksmiths can make you one easily. Do a web search and you will likely find some for sale.

If you want to make your own then a good file as mentioned is the way to go. Good Luck
There are no bad knappers, only bad flakes

Offline Mike_H

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2014, 09:24:58 pm »
Can't post nonsponcer links but I got mine from lame beaver trading on Etsy.  Great steel, sparks well.

Offline streamflyer

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2014, 01:16:57 am »
Thanks guys I will check all those out. Truth be told JW is cool but I don't want to overuse him as a resource. I am way too excited for the notion of making a fire with flint and steel I saw JW's kit and went and bought a box of altoids . I don't eat them so I put them in a bag for my fiance. She thought I was so sweet till I dumped them into a bag. then i got the look.

Offline chamookman

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2014, 05:22:37 am »
Oh No - not the "LOOK"  ;)! A good friend never has a problem getting His tinder bundle going - He puts a charge of FFF from His priming Horn in the tinder  >:D. Bob
"May the Gods give Us the strength to draw the string to the cheek, the arrow to the barb and loose the flying shaft, so long as life may last." Saxon Pope - 1923.

Offline KHalverson

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #10 on: January 13, 2014, 04:42:04 pm »
glenn
pm sent.
Kevin

Offline nclonghunter

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #11 on: January 13, 2014, 05:09:44 pm »
She will give you the "other look" when you show her how you can make SPARKS and FIRE with flint and steel....trust me
There are no bad knappers, only bad flakes

Offline Thesquirrelslinger

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #12 on: January 13, 2014, 06:05:03 pm »
Oh No - not the "LOOK"  ;)! A good friend never has a problem getting His tinder bundle going - He puts a charge of FFF from His priming Horn in the tinder  >:D. Bob
Ill bet he never has a problem!!!
Would alumnium dust work? I have lots of it because I filed a medieval-style xbow release mech from alumnium. 6061 alloy.
Thought I'd ask here first so I know if it will go boom or not.

BTW a tin for the .22 or .177 pellets works better for the charcloth, it seals better ;)
"Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"

Offline KHalverson

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #13 on: January 13, 2014, 07:44:37 pm »
Oh No - not the "LOOK"  ;)! A good friend never has a problem getting His tinder bundle going - He puts a charge of FFF from His priming Horn in the tinder  >:D. Bob
Ill bet he never has a problem!!!
Would alumnium dust work? I have lots of it because I filed a medieval-style xbow release mech from alumnium. 6061 alloy.
Thought I'd ask here first so I know if it will go boom or not.

BTW a tin for the .22 or .177 pellets works better for the charcloth, it seals better ;)

squirrel
aluminum wont work .
you need magnesium.

Offline nclonghunter

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Re: Flint And steel
« Reply #14 on: January 14, 2014, 11:11:49 am »
Take a look at "Track of the Wolf, Inc." They sell striker kits at a good price.
There are no bad knappers, only bad flakes