Question on building ishi stick and pressure flakers (updated & pics added)

[Marks]

I know this isn't a real technical build but any links to your favorite build a long or guide would be great. I'm not quite ready to start knapping but I want to get some nice tools built for when I do start. I'm keeping a eye for bottle bottoms as well.
I turned an osage shaft on the lathe last night. It is 14.5" long and between 1"-1.25" diameter. It would make an exceptional billy club if you needed to bop someone on the head.
What is the best form of copper to use and what size?? I'll be getting it from the hardware store. Not planning on ordering.
I assume I will be putting in a set screw to adjust the copper.
Is it necessary to wrap or reinforce the tip of the wood to keep it from splitting? I'd rather not but if so, what do you suggest?
I'm sure more questions will follow but this will do for now. If I get quick enough answers I may make a trip to Lowes at lunch.

[Thesquirrelslinger]

if you have it, sinew works really well for keeping it from splitting.
So do squirrel hide strips wrapped around it after being soaked in hide glue.
I dunno if osage needs it, but oak and BL need it... better safe than sorry.

1/4th inch solid copper cable is cheap, and works really well.
I know a lot of people use it. It is also available at most hardware stores.

[JackCrafty]

With any type of wood, including osage, you will need to wrap the tip to prevent splitting from the set screw and from heavy use of pressure or percussion.  Believe me, you will develop strength fast and will split the wood easily.  I recommend that you wrap with steel wire.  Most knappers use rods of Delrin or UHMW plastic so they don't have to reinforce the tip.

The hardware stores here only carry copper grounding wire, so that's what I use.  I believe the largest size I can get is #6 or 6AWG and is about 5/32" in diameter.  I can also get #8 or 8AWG and that's about 1/8" in diameter.  It is suitable for glass but not for tackling thick, tough rock.  Some hardware stores carry copper rod and copper nails that have larger diameters and are made of tougher copper.  The stores in my area DO NOT.

If you do a google search for flintknapping tools and search the images (not the web links) you will get plenty of ideas. 

Edit:  I'm going to check on the wire gauge sizes.  I can never seem to get these right.  I just go to the store and point to what I need.... and they cut it.   
OK, I checked the sizes.  The #6 and #8 copper grounding wire should be available everywhere.  The #4 and thicker may not be available unless you go to a contractor's supply store.

[caveman2533]

IMO, Its too short and to big a diameter. It should be 18-20 inches long and thin enough to flex when you put the mojo to it. If you need the end bigger diameter for strength that is fine but  it should flex. That is the point of an Ishi. It should be able to build up power before releasing the flake. It should be long enough when sitting with knees a bit higher than the hips, and your hands between your knees to reach your along side your chest. Otherwise you can not utilize the power in your legs for pressure flakin efficiently.  # 4 ground wire should be great. Chuck it in your drill and twist it till it breaks. This will help harden it.  If you want some copper nails send me a pm. I have some that are a bit bigger than 3/16.. You could also add a copper or brass fitting to the end for the set screw and to keep the end from splitting.

[JackCrafty]

Caveman's advice is really good.

It should be remembered, though, that many modern knappers have adapted Ishi's tools and methods to the current trends in pressure flaking techniques.  If you chose modern methods, that's fine, but make sure you know what type of method you are watching (modern or ethnographic) when you are observing other knappers.  I can get confusing.

Ishi is considered the "father" of modern knapping but his tool kit contained no copper and his tools did not "flex".  He used steel and antler pressure flakers with wood or antler handles.

[BOWMAN53]

when i started the indirect percussion, the way jackcrafty does it, the first two ishi sticks split. on the next one i made out of hickory i heat treated it with the copper rod in it andi havent had an issue since. and i wack the crap out of it lol.

[iowabow]

Just a a side note an ulna bone will flex and this quality is very benifical when using it to finish an edge.

[JackCrafty]

Hmmm.. I gotta try that heat treated hickory idea.  I've got a bunch of scrap pieces laying around.

John, that's cool.  I've used some flexible bone in the past.  Problem is, the flexing is usually followed by the *snapping*.   

[iowabow]

Hmmm.. I gotta try that heat treated hickory idea.  I've got a bunch of scrap pieces laying around.

Jon, that's cool.  I've used some flexible bone in the past.  Problem is, the flexing is usually followed by the *snapping*.   

I will send you one pm your address and maybe I will send some white stuff

[JackCrafty]

Sweet.

[Marks]

If yall wanted to post picks of your tools that would be cool.

[JackCrafty]

John, I sent you my address but I messed up on the zip code.  Your mailbox is full, so I was not able to send a correction.     Let me know if there's anything you need in exchange.

[JackCrafty]

Marks, do you watch youtube?

[iowabow]

John, I sent you my address but I messed up on the zip code.  Your mailbox is full, so I was not able to send a correction.     Let me know if there's anything you need in exchange.

no its cool...mail box open...sorry

[Marks]

Yeah I watch YouTube.