looking for arrow shafts

[Beowulf]

So I'm having a warbow made 100#@32" I knew at the time I would have issues finding wood arrow shafts and the quality of dowels that I have found in my area are very poor so I was resolved on making my arrows but I'm even having issues finding wood stock. Can anyone point me in the right direction

[toomanyknots]

Are you in the states? I can't accurately spine 100#, but if you just want some bigger shafts, 3/8" to 1/2" or so I might be able to hook you up. I think I know a couple places you can buy 100# spined shafts too. If you are interested, shoot me a PM...

[PatM]

When did selfbow guys start shooting actual spine weight? I really doubt those Mary Rose shafts spined anywhere close to the draw weight of the bows.

[adb]

When did selfbow guys start shooting actual spine weight? I really doubt those Mary Rose shafts spined anywhere close to the draw weight of the bows.

I used to think this too... but practical experience has taught me otherwise. http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,41464.0.html

[Beowulf]

Thanks adb you summed it up nicely to where I don't have to write that lengthy I do it because article . I will say all of the dowel stock that I have found has over 75% run out which makes it very unsafe to shoot. I have started to look for board stock in lumber yards and the ones that I have stopped at only have straight cut lumber and not quarter cut. Straight cut lumber is okay if you use the center most boards. Quarter cut makes for ideal shafts and after you taper your arrows down from 1/2" to 3/8" you will still have straight grain running the length of the shaft making it a safer arrow to shoot.

[PatM]

That seems to agree with what I said....

[adb]

That seems to agree with what I said....

Huh??... actual spine weight DOES matter.

[PatM]

It seems like you were saying the more flexible shafts were flying better?

[adb]

It seems like you were saying the more flexible shafts were flying better?

Yes... for the weight bows I was shooting them out of. In the past, I would just make war arrows from 1/2" stock and not pay attention to spine. These were mostly ash, birch and oak shafts. I have found this does not provide the best cast. Extremely over spined shafts did not fly as well (or as far) as a more appropriately spined shaft. I made some 1/2" poplar arrows, with noticeably softer spine, and they flew significantly further. They also had better flight, with less fish tailing (hence improved cast).

[PatM]

That's kind of what I'm getting at. The " correct " spine is important but it's likely not the actual spine/poundage that's identical.
 

[toomanyknots]

That's kind of what I'm getting at. The " correct " spine is important but it's likely not the actual spine/poundage that's identical.

I though english longbows worked best with arrows spined about 10 - 15 lbs lighter, depending on how wide the bow was?

[Forresterwoods]

I would keep the spine on the high end due to your draw length. I've had issues with ash warping on me. I have some shafts in 11/32 that spine over 100 lbs....Some 23/64 that spine over 130 lbs...and some light weight hardwood that could probably spine around 100 lbs Iin 23/64  but haven't tried that yet.

Kevin

[Bryce]

Echo archery has heavy spined surewood shafts that will take to your war bow.

[Del the cat]

Like Pat says... there are many other factors especially with a warbow.
From the little experience I have, I'd guess most warbow shafts are over spined, but if you have the very heavy head and big fletchings you can get away with it. It's all down to what you want from the projectile maximum impact energy, maximum range or maximum accuracy.
Flight shooting my 100# Elm, I found a 5/16" 40-45 spine arrow flew best... that would seem ludicrously under spined, but there was very little head weight to keep the front going straight and to provide the inertia against which to flex, not much fletch to straighten it up either.
Del