Question about finishes

[CPLSeraphim]

I was looking, and trying to find if there was a specific brand finish you guys like to use, or at least for specific woods? Kind of like tightbond three is the preference for glue. I am basically making a red oak board bow for my first, and making 2 at once, one for me and one for my dad. Anyway, They are going to be backed with the faux snakeskin from 3 rivers (My dads diamond back, and mine copperhead) and I have red oak as for the riser as well, and just want to make sure I get the best finish possible, especially for the first 2 bows because I really want to go bow hunting next year, and want to have time to shoot my bow to get proficient before archery season.

So what kind of finish do you guys prefer? If there are different types you prefer for different woods, add it. Thanks again.

[IdahoMatt]

True oil is what I use.  It is user friendly and you can touch it up with ease as we'll.  it takes a while between coat and IMHO that is it's down side.  But if you are getting into making bows without patience you find you will need a lot before you can grow.  So the wait between coats is no biggie . 

Matt

[DarkSoul]

This topic has been discussed many times. There are countless topics to be found that have received many replies in the past. You'll get a lot of reading from this: https://www.google.com/#q=site:www.primitivearcher.com+finishes

[CPLSeraphim]

Thanks Idaho, and for DarkSoul, that seems to work better than the forum search. LOL. That is very different from other forums I have been a part of.

[wood_bandit99]

I use linseed oil and beeswax. I rub linseed about 6 coats then I rub beeswax when needed and it makes a very waterproof coating. It also looks nice and is dull for hunting, BUT you can buff it with your sleeve or something and it makes it shiny. I just went hunting today and it rained all day. The bow was really wet and when I got back I just rubbed a cloth on it and it was dry.

[Joec123able]

I use a simple polyurethane or lacquer apply it once and don't worry about it again

[Dances with squirrels]

Titebond isn't my glue preference. I much prefer Smooth On.

I use Thunderbird finish. Beautiful, done in two days, and virtually indestructable.

[crooketarrow]

  BEE'S WAX
 OSAGE THEN HICKORY

  CLP I just put copperhead skin from 3 rivers on a osage bow.
  Let me say they suck. Mine were really light colored, simi dry rotted. But my big pev was I could not get the ends of the treads to stop unrivleing or cover up the ends so the looked smooth.

  THEY SUCKED

  MY FIRST AND LAST.

[CPLSeraphim]

crooketarrow- Thanks for the heads up. I have already ordered them, so I will just do whatever I can to get the best result, I guess. lol. I think I have just about everything I need to start this bow project... and will be picking up tools to tiller soon. couldn't find hack at lowes. lol.

[NeolithicMan]

Another vote for true-oil here. Ive sprayed poly, rubbed on shallac, and painted on a few chemicals and oils. True-oil is durrable, consistent and easy in my oppinion. I use it on bows, arrows, knife handles and just about any wood craft I have done. good experiences all around hope it helps.

John

[Josh B]

First of all, welcome fellow jarhead!  The faux skins can be made to look fairly decent.  From five feet away or further most people don't realize that they're not real.  The trick to the edges is doping them with your TB3 several times before you sand them out and then put a little more glue on your finger and just sort of rub along the edge after its sanded to stick down any stubborn whiskers.  For a finish on cloth backed bows, I prefer fast dry spray polyurethane.  Spray a light coat, wait an hour, repeat five more times.  Let it set for a day and cure.  Then take 400 grit and lightly sand. Don't sand through the finish, just knock off the high spots.  Clean up the dust with a tack cloth and put six more light coats on, waiting an hour in between coats.  Let it sit for a day then lightly sand again.  I usually repeat this repeat this process 3 times.  This will fill in the pores and the Low spots in the weave of the cloth and make for a really nice finish.  For hunting you don't want a lot of shine so after it cures you can lightly buff with ultra fine steel wool to knock down the glare.  Here's a hackberry I made awhile back with those fake skins.  Josh

[CPLSeraphim]

Thanks Gun Doc, and that actually looks a lot better then I was expecting. I do appreciate the heads up, and the glue tips. I will definatley do that when I get there. Thank a lot.

[Pat B]

I also use True-Oil.Have for years.  I apply it with my finger. The first coat takes the longest to dry usually and high humidity makes it take longer to dry. I usually do one coat per day for 5 or 6 days with a rubdown wih 0000 steel wool. For hunting bows I give them a quick spray satan poly to kill the shine of Tru-Oil.
  Be sure the bows you build are well shot-in before you add the skins...just in case. 

[toomanyknots]

I like pure tung oil, and tru oil. Not together per say, just like both of them. One is dull, one is glossy. Tung oil is even more user friendly then tru oil. I hate missing little hairs or stuff in a tru oil finish, and having to fix it. Or missing a finger print smudge, etc. It's impossible to do that with tung oil I think. I wanna make my own paste wax though, to go over tung oil bows. I am going to buy terpentine, and some beeswax. One guy recommended I use carnuba though, because it is harder and not as sticky? Anybody make there own paste wax? Can a paste wax finish be buffed to a gloss? All the paste wax I have made has been cut with oil, and it never gave a good gloss finish. And it didn't really build up either like pure wax will do, it just wiped off.

[Josh B]

Anytime!  I'm glad to help.  I usually prefer tru oil on most of my bows and I apply it much the same as Pat does.  I would also recommend waiting until your bows are well shot in before you apply the skins.  They're cheap compared to the real thing, but not so cheap as to risk em on a bow that may not last.  I won't skin one til after at least a hundred shots or so.  Josh