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Author Topic: Tiller Help  (Read 2107 times)

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Offline RyanR

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Tiller Help
« on: October 06, 2013, 09:19:10 pm »
Just trying to finish this tiller. I think I see a couple issues but just want some advice.  I have some draw weight to work with so I can take wood off.
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Offline Josh B

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2013, 09:26:36 pm »
My phone is only letting me see the left side so I'll tell you what I see there anyway.  The left limb is close to hinging out of the fade.  The good news is that your a bit flat through the middle third of the same limb.  If you get the midlimb working more, it will go along ways towards relieving the excess bend at the fade.  I wouldn't do any more scraping on the outer limb though.  Just my .02. Josh
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Offline huisme

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2013, 09:35:55 pm »
right in the middle of each limb is stiff as a board, and causing hinges just out of the fade and just before the static tip. Don't draw it this far until you've done some serious scraping, and then don't draw any farther than it takes to think you might be imagining that something might be wrong maybe. You might be able to save this bow from taking more than two inches of set if you slow down and do some heat treating.

It's funny, this is almost exactly the opposite of my first tillered board that never became an actual bow. Stiff fades and outer limbs, huge hinges in the middle of the limbs.
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50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline BowSlayer

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2013, 09:39:31 pm »
On the right limb there are two hinges.  One near the fade and one near the tip. Like josh said I  would also work on the middle part of the left limb and get that bending.  Hope this helps and keep us updated.
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London, England.

45#@28"

Offline RyanR

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #4 on: October 06, 2013, 09:45:23 pm »
I see the points you are talking about. I didn't notice the hinge at the fade on the right side until you mentioned it. On the right limb near the tip there was a knot that is causing that funny bend. It funny how I can see it better in the picture than just looking at the bow.  I guess I have some work tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
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Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #5 on: October 07, 2013, 08:35:14 am »
Ryan try not to bend the bow as far until you get it smoothed off. By going too far too soon your adding 1-2" of set that doesn't have to be there.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline crooketarrow

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2013, 08:47:21 am »
 LOOKS GOOD OTHER THAN A COUPLE LITTLE STIFF SPOTS.

  I do this when I think I'm done.
   
   I do this for a couple different days. You want to be finish by nature. When I think I'm finished I'll hang it up and look at it the next day. I promass you, you'll always see new spots that are stiff. Some times it'll take me a couple days of doing this untill I'm good with my tiller.
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Offline Dances with squirrels

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2013, 09:33:33 am »
How can you guys judge tiller without a picture of the bow unbraced for reference? Natural humps and deflexed areas can look like they're bending too much when they're not. I won't give tiller advice without seeing at least one picture of  the bow unbraced.
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Straight wood may make a better bow, but crooked wood makes a better bowyer

Offline SLIMBOB

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #8 on: October 07, 2013, 09:59:24 am »
Good point squirrel, but the hinges mentioned are pretty certain.  +1 PD, don't draw it that far without the tiller being good 6 inches shorter.  It'll break or just simply give up.  Neither will leave you happy.
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Offline RyanR

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #9 on: October 07, 2013, 10:35:49 pm »
Thanks for the help. I think I got most of the problem points taken care of as best as I could. One thing I figured out is that tillering post my bow was sitting on was too high. When I took the picture I was standing on a bucket so it was easier to see the problems.  I cut 8 inches off from it so I can see the side profile instead of the belly of the bow.  The bow has about a half inch of string follow. I kept the weight up where I wanted 55@26. My draw is closer to 27" so I am happy with the weight. The bow really looks good. It is elm.  The grain looks really nice and it has a couple small knots for character.  It also really puts an arrow out pretty fast.  I hope to get a few coats of polyurethane and a grip on it by the end of the week.  I will post some pictures. Thanks again for the help.
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Offline huisme

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #10 on: October 07, 2013, 10:50:08 pm »
Nice job good sir! Don't keep us waiting too long on those pics  ;)
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50#@26"
Black locust. Black locust everywhere.
Mollegabets all day long.
Might as well make them short, save some wood to keep warm.

Offline BowSlayer

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #11 on: October 08, 2013, 03:45:12 am »
Quote from: huisme on October 07, 2013, 10:50:08 pm
Nice job good sir! Don't keep us waiting too long on those pics  ;)

+1 can't wait  ;)
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London, England.

45#@28"

Offline PEARL DRUMS

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #12 on: October 08, 2013, 07:36:17 am »
Quote from: Dances with squirrels on October 07, 2013, 09:33:33 am
How can you guys judge tiller without a picture of the bow unbraced for reference? Natural humps and deflexed areas can look like they're bending too much when they're not. I won't give tiller advice without seeing at least one picture of  the bow unbraced.

Me personally? I know Ryan well and I know what Ryan works with. If that bow was kinky and snakey we would have had conversation before this point. I cant speak for the others.
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Only when the last tree has died and the last river has been poisoned and the last fish has been caught will we realize we cannot eat money.

Offline Josh B

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Re: Tiller Help
« Reply #13 on: October 08, 2013, 12:31:49 pm »
Quote from: Dances with squirrels on October 07, 2013, 09:33:33 am
How can you guys judge tiller without a picture of the bow unbraced for reference? Natural humps and deflexed areas can look like they're bending too much when they're not. I won't give tiller advice without seeing at least one picture of  the bow unbraced.

Simple answer, I thought it was a board bow.  I can't see much detail on this phone.  But you are absolutely correct.  An unbraced reference photo is essential.  My bad.  Josh
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