Could you guys give me a tiller check

[Barefoot_Jake]

I went down to the local archery shop and I finally got a real bowstring to string up on the red oak board bow I am working on,
so I put it up on the tree and I can see now compared to the other string I was using that there is some more tillering I need to do. I would like to hear your guys advice! also the brace is a inch too high but its what i have to work with.

[bow101]

Looks stiff in mid limb sections.......

[Joec123able]

Right side hinge in the fade area and hinge on right tip And stiff over whole mid limb. The left Need to bend more mid limb too

[Barefoot_Jake]

thanks for confirming my thoughts thats what I was thinkin, I need to take some off both the mid limbs.   

[steve b.]

The left is better but a little more circular would be ideal.

[beetlebailey1977]

Mid limbs are flat....

[Fred Arnold]

I can actually see the difference in the thickness of the limbs where the wood should be removed.

But I can't give you any advice because "I can't tiller".

When I get to your stage I'm pretty much befuddled! Try as I might, I'm not yet a bowyer.

I've got  a half dz under my belt and 2 of them have more hand shock than old Mount St. Helen.

[mikekeswick]

Rule number one - don't ever pull a bow further than needed to see the problem.....it shouldn't even be braced yet with the tiller like that. Stay with the long string for longer.
Also don't buy made up string.
Buy some B50 and make your own it's way cheaper.

[Gaur]

seems to me you are pulling that back father then you should to reveal its stiff mid limb.  I'd be worried you would overstress the areas that are bending too much. 

[Gaur]

guess I was posting at the same time as Mike.  He said it better anyway.

[Del the cat]

Hold a CD (or a saucer, mug, anything circular within reach of the keyboard) up in front of the screen and move it to try and match the curve of the limb... it really shows up the errors.
Del

[adb]

How much set has it taken?

[Pappy]

Stay away from the fads, 4 or 5 inches out on both limbs, I always save the fads till last,it is easy to hinge there and will take the most string follow if you get set
there. Good advice above on not pulling more than you need to see the problem. That is very important rule that lots have trouble following. 
   Pappy

[Barefoot_Jake]

How much set has it taken?

it has took some set but not much Idk how you would measure it

Stay away from the fads, 4 or 5 inches out on both limbs, I always save the fads till last,it is easy to hinge there and will take the most string follow if you get set
there. Good advice above on not pulling more than you need to see the problem. That is very important rule that lots have trouble following. 
   Pappy

I see now the importance of having a good bowstring because the tiller was looking alot better on other crappy string, also when you guys say on not pulling  more than you need I dont understand what you are saying could you explain please?

[Gaur]

well if I can see a flat spot at 15" draw (I take pictures and look at them) then I would correct it without pulling it to a full draw shot like your picture.  There are a couple of places that look like hinges and that will overstress the wood there and cause you bow to not be all it could have been (wood gets over stressed and that is what causes set).  You can measure set by seeing how much your bow tips move before you string it and then after you brace it and pull it, shoot it.  I guess the rule is to determine that right after you unstring it and not say the morning after as the bow will return some to straighter over time.