I have had horrible luck with jatoba as a belly wood. At first with some lighter bows, it worked pretty nice. I thought it was better than ipe, as it shot a bit faster. But as soon as I moved onto anything over 30#, it chrysaled instantly. I have seen some nice jatoba bows, but for a warbow I would not even think about it. For some reason it chrysals very easy, for me at least it does. First I think you need to find some quality backing material, as that is harder to find than belly material I think. Look for 6 or 8 quarter flatsawn, in maple and ash. Maple will be most likely easier to find a good piece than ash, but I think both will make ok backings. You need to look down the side of the board though, to see if the grain is straight with minimal run offs. When you find one, you can rip down the side of the board and have quarter sawn of flatsawn backings. Don't really know what to tell you with belly wood with your selection, you can try ash or white oak since you can get it. If you look around places that sell decking material, you might find some ipe. I've heard white oak takes a good amount of set. I've heard cherry chrysals. Bloodwood is very dense, might wanna give that a try, but I don't know personally how it will do. I think john strunk made an english longbow out of it. I've seen plenty of red oak english longbows on here, but no red oak warbows. I think good red oak might be able to take it, but bad red oak can be pretty bad and chrysal so you have to be picky. The lighter colored red oak, with thicker rings and less early wood takes less set. Don't ask me why it always has thicker rings, no idea why, it just seems to be this way for me, haha. Might just be the selection at my local home depot? And I don't know about cocobolo, but that stuff is like 100 - 150 for a 6 - 8 foot board at my local woodcraft!
