Tillering around Knots

[Don Case]

Is this a no-no? I got the impression from all the reading I've been doing that I should be following the grain better. This is on the belly.
Thanks
Don

[SLIMBOB]

I can't see the grain in your picture.  If your question is about following the grain around knots in general, yes, that is critical.  I look at it from the back though, not the belly.  The grain will flow around a knot like water around a rock in a stream.  Follow it as it flows, just like if you floated a leaf in that stream.  Draw an imaginary line following the path that leaf takes around the rock.  It followed the grain.  Translate that imagery to the back of your bow.  If your question is specific to the bigger knot on the top, could be a problem.  Doable, but problematic.  Is it punky wood in the knot?

[Pat B]

How thick is the stave at the knots. You might remove them as you tiller.

[Don Case]

Yes, it's the big knot I'm concerned with. It is a little punky. I don't think I will be taking of enough wood to eliminate the knot. I'm not worried about how this bow will turn out, it's a test, my first try.
 So when I was first shaping this I should have noticed that the knot was there and not removed wood from the area. Then later on in the tillering I could sneak up on the knot to pretty up the area. I would then have a bump on the belly protecting that area. Does that sound about right?
Don

[Bryce]

Looks like oceanspray. You'll be fine. That isn't anything to worry about.

[SLIMBOB]

Not in my opinion no.  The belly should be board flat as yours appears to be.  Adjust for the knots by adding more wood to the side of the bow, not the belly.  That will allow more wood to work at that particular spot, lessening the stress on the knot some.  Knots like that are tricky.  Very doable, just take your time bending it.

[Don Case]

Not in my opinion no.  The belly should be board flat as yours appears to be.  Adjust for the knots by adding more wood to the side of the bow, not the belly.  That will allow more wood to work at that particular spot, lessening the stress on the knot some.  Knots like that are tricky.  Very doable, just take your time bending it.

I'm not sure I understand. How can I add more wood?
Don

[SLIMBOB]

You can't.  I'm speaking in general about working on knots.  You probably couldn't on that limb, don't know.  Just keep your side taper fatter (wider) at a knot by doing as I described above.

[Don Case]

Thanks Guys, I think I've got it.
Don

[aaron]

in general, it's best to avoid knots exiting the belly right on the corner like that, but as others said, you can probably get away with it on this one. On some woods like Ocean Spray, you can hardly avoid it. Also some woods are "magic" and tolerate almost anything, such as Ocean Spray.
how long did you dry it? how did you prepare it for drying? (seal ends, remove bark,...?) Just curious because OS is tough to season without checking. We'd love to get all the stats on this bow when it's done!

[Don Case]

Well, I'm a little reluctant to say but the reason I collected it is because it made such great toothpicks. There is a small OS bush beside my favorite campsite that has been beat all to heck by campers. I was looking for a piece of wood for a toothpick an broke off a splinter. I was very impressed when I tried to carve it a bit. I thought, "Boy this is tough wood." I thought it would make good fish clubs. I went out in the bush behind my house and collected a couple of stems. It must have been in the winter. Anyway I stood them in the corner of the garage and forgot about it for a year or two. A little investigating later I found that the natives made bows and arrows with it so I thought I would give it a whirl. There is a little checking but after reading on here about it's tendency to check I think I got off lucky. I'm sorry now that I didn't collect more because when I finish this bow(or break it) I'm going to have to wait until the staves I cut last week to dry, if they don't check. The staves I'm waiting on are much nicer than this one and I have a few staked out to harvest in the winter. Sorry for the long story, I got carried away.
Don

[Pat B]

Knots on the belly side aren't as susceptable to breakage as knots on the back. If the back ring is unviolated you have a good chance of sucess.

[Don Case]

We're going camping tomorrow so I have five days to tiller my heart out.
Don

[mikekeswick]

The real problem which nobody seems to have mentioned is that when you get a knot on a sapling stave it can go right across half of the limb making a weak point. I would suggest rounding any knots like this so that it doesn't take up all the width. Maybe OS can take it  (i've never worked with it) but on most sapling bows knots that run right across half of the limb can chyrsal.

[Bryce]

OS usually has little knots all over it. I just ignore them and it turns out fine.