Elm sapwood

[Prarie Bowyer]

Got a smaller diameter log in elm 45"long.  Big trunk section still there but I didn't have time to go get it.  May try on the 4th?  Doubtful.

This log is mostly sap wood.  How is sap wood for bullies?  How is the heart wood?

What is the best way to process this?  Split staves or saw slats?   How finely can I expect them to split? 

Must it be one radially?  Other than turning ine big stave into two smaller staves I have not done this before.

Illumination?

[Prarie Bowyer]

I would like to get he pieces as small as possible for faster drying.  I pretty much make only backed bows.  I've done several splices but only in board bows.

[Thesquirrelslinger]

Got a smaller diameter log in elm 45"long.  Big trunk section still there but I didn't have time to go get it.  May try on the 4th?  Doubtful.

This log is mostly sap wood.  How is sap wood for bullies?  How is the heart wood?

What is the best way to process this?  Split staves or saw slats?   How finely can I expect them to split? 

Must it be one radially?  Other than turning ine big stave into two smaller staves I have not done this before.

Illumination?

Elm is very hard to split. I have had some good little elm bows, I was actually shocked at how little set they took(my tillering isn't exactly good). Split it into bowstaves, let sit for a month, then cut down to near-final dimensions, let sit for 2 weeks. Then ready.
45" logs make good little kids bows.
I split a 5" diam log(with bark, so actually closer to 4") and used each half. I have a 6" log that the wedge is stuck..

[dwardo]

All of the elm bows i have made have all been from "sapwood"
The heart wood over here doesn't tent to get very thick at all. On a 12" diameter tree it can sometimes on be the middle 2 or 3 inches that is noticeably darker.

[Pat B]

This is a bow I built for the TG Bow Trade a few years ago. It is red elm sapwood, 60"t/t, static recurve and around 50#@26"(tillered out to 28"). I heat treated the belly and bent the recurves with dry heat and a little oil. This was my first elm selfbow and I will definately use it again.




 The backing on this bow is giraffe print on tissue paper, decorative only.

[BowEd]

I remember that bow.Nice one.Most elm bows are all sapwood because after bark removal there's the back of the bow.Well behaved drying in staves.It does take heat treatment real well too as you can see.Very good all around wood for different type designs.It's hickorys little brother as they say.

[Prarie Bowyer]

i love your bows man.

Ther eis a MUCh larger trunk section still there.  Straighter also.  I'd have milled and taken the whole thing but time was an issue.  I'm also laying new flooirng in the littleones room and the Wife has "plans" for my time.  it is in an awkward place to get at so I took this little large limb section. 

But after sleeping on it i'm thinking perhaps I shoudl go back for that other log.  I'm wondering if i can split it cleanly enough that I can get the chain mill on it.

Anybody had decent success getting ELM to split straightishly?

[Pat B]

PB, score the log with a circular saw, kerfing it about 1" deep. This will help guide the split more cleanly. Be very careful cutting the kerf so the saw doesn't get away from you. It can be dangerous.

[Prarie Bowyer]

Ok so after some sketching and thinking I think i might make this plan for the bigger trunk.  It i like 8' long and 18+ inch diameter.  saw it to manageable lengths and then split it with wedged into 1/8ths or so (given clean splitting, saw assisted)  then I can take those section to the band saw and set my table angle to rip flat sawn lumber for bellies.  May save a few for quartersawing.  :-)  May make nice other projects.  Cutting baords, furniture etc :-)

[Prarie Bowyer]

PB, score the log with a circular saw, kerfing it about 1" deep. This will help guide the split more cleanly. Be very careful cutting the kerf so the saw doesn't get away from you. It can be dangerous.

There is no length to get a cord with a saw to the big log.  That will need to be scored with a chain saw.

[Pat B]

be extra careful with the chainsaw. Using only the tip of the chain can cause kickbacks. 

[Prarie Bowyer]

I know.  It is 1/2 slid down into a ditch.  I'm not looking foreward to this.  BUT Elm makes lovely greenmen!  If they are a pain to carve.  See Chris Pye's Greenman in ELM.

http://www.chrispye-woodcarving.com/gallery/green-men

Solar green man in elm.

[Prarie Bowyer]

does that interlocking greain on ELM mean it's a better bow wood and possibly less prone to breakage?

[adb]

PB, score the log with a circular saw, kerfing it about 1" deep. This will help guide the split more cleanly. Be very careful cutting the kerf so the saw doesn't get away from you. It can be dangerous.

+1 on that. Only way to split elm IMHO. Works good for ash, too. Nice bow Pat B, bye the way!!

[dwardo]

Never had an issue splitting elm. Just follow up the wedges with a billhook or sometimes just a knife.