Need a tillering check. Maple Mollegabet.

[munkinstein]

I've almost finished my second bow, just have to sand it, thin the tips, finish the nocks, and apply some spar.  I think there are some minor tillering issues though that I'd like to get fixed before I complete this bow.  Some info on the bow.  It is a hemp backed maple mollegabet style bow.  66 NtN with 2 inch wide working limbs that are 17 inches long.  The hand and upper fades are wrapped in hemp rope.  The bow is not twisting in the picture, it's just my ham-fistedness.  I have no idea of the draw weight, I have not checked it yet.  My other bow was a 52lb @ 28 red oak, this feels a little lighter, I'd guess it is between 40 and 45 lb.  I have supplied two pictures, with the bow flipped and at almost full draw.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Gotta get the mid limb moving much more.

[ionicmuffin]

that and the outer limbs look stiff too.

[munkinstein]

Gotta get the mid limb moving much more.

Figured as much.  There actually is a slight twist as well, I was incorrect regarding my ham-fistedness.  I think it is caused by too much wood on one side of the upper limb.  At least that's what my calipers are telling me.  I will correct the tillering problem and post new pictures.  Thanks for your advice!

[Del the cat]

I agree with others, but I'd add it looks better in the second pic.
Del

[BowEd]

Your really close munkinstein.What PD said.A little more bend just down from your levers.Wide bows like that are a little more time consuming to make sure the thickness is the same on both edges.Good job on that maple.

[munkinstein]

Your really close munkinstein.What PD said.A little more bend just down from your levers.Wide bows like that are a little more time consuming to make sure the thickness is the same on both edges.Good job on that maple.

Yea I think the twist is being caused by uneven distribution of wood.  If I correct it, will the twist go away, or will I have to use heat to work it out.  It doesn't seem that bad and it doesn't seem to be affecting the accuracy.  Here is a new picture after I took some wood off with a cabinet scraper.  It looks a little better, but I really don't want the weight of the bow dropping too much more.

[munkinstein]

Regarding the twist; I've noticed that when I turn the bow upside down the limb that was formerly twisting no longer twists and that was not twisting is.  Could this be due to improper technique?

[SLIMBOB]

Last pick, top limb too stiff mid limb.  Bottom also, but better.  Not sure about the twist.  Go for good tiller at this point and draw weight will be what ever it is.  Hate being in this situation, and I been there a bunch, but good tiller should be the goal.

[munkinstein]

Last pick, top limb too stiff mid limb.  Bottom also, but better.  Not sure about the twist.  Go for good tiller at this point and draw weight will be what ever it is.  Hate being in this situation, and I been there a bunch, but good tiller should be the goal.

All right.  Will aim for good tiller above all else, besides I can always build more bows!  Thanks for your advice!

[blackhawk]

Also for future reference.....never pull past a perceived flaw in your tiller regardless of where you are at in draw length and weight wise no matter what...so in essence you shouldn't be pulling it that far yet with the top limb hinging off the fade...the wood will crush more there than anywhere else because of uneven distribution and cause more set there than anywhere else,and could possibly cause frets...especially when you have a hinge at the fade area...hinges at that area tend to take a lot of set and string follow (robbing cast)with a high risk of frets or even eventual breakage down the road...IMHO that def needs fixed for that design

[Roy]

Like Blackhawk pointed out, there is a bad hinge in top limb.

[BowEd]

For just your second bow you took on a more time consuming design.Maybe make a few more first of a simpler design to good tillering techniques,an eye for an even bend,and to get a feel what happens with wood removal etc.You'll have to face the fact that to adjust your limbs to bending evenly you will lose some draw weight.Bending evenly first while the bow is a little over weight not going over your designated full draw weight.Even removal of wood to keep em that way and creep up on your designated full draw weight.Don't feel bad everyone has at some time been where you are right now.I'll still say not bad for your second bow though.You might want to get a weight scale too.After correcting your limbs you could pike it to raise your draw weight if you like.You've got enough length.

[munkinstein]

Like Blackhawk pointed out, there is a bad hinge in top limb.

I see that.  I haven't been touching this area at all.  I guess I'll chalk this one down to inexperience and try again.

[munkinstein]

Also for future reference.....never pull past a perceived flaw in your tiller regardless of where you are at in draw length and weight wise no matter what...so in essence you shouldn't be pulling it that far yet with the top limb hinging off the fade...the wood will crush more there than anywhere else because of uneven distribution and cause more set there than anywhere else,and could possibly cause frets...especially when you have a hinge at the fade area...hinges at that area tend to take a lot of set and string follow (robbing cast)with a high risk of frets or even eventual breakage down the road...IMHO that def needs fixed for that design

Thanks for your advice!