BBI reflex/deflex...

[toomanyknots]

Nice lines! Excellent work on the riser. Me likey! Looks like you have had waaaay better luck on this one than your hickory. It's nice to see great results for your efforts.

Thank you! Haha, yes I am still irked about that hickory, .

Nice 
Very sweet curves. Perhaps a tad too much deflex. I don't think you need more meat in the handle fade area. The thickness layout and powerlam sounds just fine as you describe it. You probably just put too much deflex in it, so it appears to bend too much in the fades while it doesn't.

Thank you dark soul! Hmm, maybe I will make a new form with less deflex.

You might try making it a tad wider at the handle fades which may would help some with the bend near the handle and might also add with the over all stability issue.

Will do. I will make the next one a bit wider. This one came in at 23# @ 28", and 25# @ 30", so I don't think it will be pushing it to make it a bit wider, .

I like the looks, but was wondering about the string slap when I seen the pics. Did you pretaper the limbs before glueup? You look like you got the tiller right on.

VMB

Ya it slaps the limbs when you shoot. I was playing with the idea of putting some string bridges on it, maybe even some simple pieces of leather glued on or something. I did taper the belly, 1/4" to around 3/32" at the tips, or just a bit less. The backing was tapered to some degree too.

[missilemaster]

Looks smooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooth!

[Marc St Louis]

Nice but it does seem overly long for BB IPE.  You sure you wouldn't want to cut a couple inches off each end?

[toomanyknots]

Looks smooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooth!

Thank ya missle master!

Nice but it does seem overly long for BB IPE.  You sure you wouldn't want to cut a couple inches off each end?

I agree. I am not gonna mess with this one anymore at the moment, but on the next one I will do the glue up with a shorter stave. Probably somewhere around 58" to 60".

[toomanyknots]

Okee Dokey, got some finished pics taken (it was basically finished anyway, just had to get er all shiny, ).













The specs came out to 65 1/8" from nock to nock, and it pulls a light 23# @ 28", 25# @ 30". So I guess it makes a nice target bow. The nocks are buffalo horn.

[bow101]

Great job & the finish looks really sweet...........

[toomanyknots]

Great job & the finish looks really sweet...........

Thank you,  the finish is just beeswax over one coat of pure tung oil. Next time I think I will just leave it solely tung oil, it looked better I think.

[AH]

that is one neat looking bow
I gotta try that design now...but how to tiller...?
hey, the shelf is on the correct side this time!

[SLIMBOB]

Very nice TMK.  You posted this at the right time for me.  I was gifted a nice piece of Ipe recently and this is close to what I'm thinking of doing with it.  May call on you for advise.  Like it a lot.

[DirtyDan]

Don't expect an r/d to tiller in a perfect circle or oval like a straight bow. The whole idea is for the outer limbs to come back to straight and inner limbs to flex back a little more than a straight bow.  Think about what you have built in:  you have pre-designed the bow to bend farther back by virtue of the deflex; at the same time, you have pre-designed the outer limbs to bend from reflex back to straight.  Both limbs should travel about the same distance under stress.  You tiller is just about right for reflex/deflex design.  Trust me, I have built many of these.  If you try to make the outer limbs bend more, you will lose way too much weight and the reflex will pull out to straight permanently.  You will wind up with a very ugly and poorly-performing bow.  You can try different thicknesses of lams if you want, but your tiller looks fine to me. 

[toomanyknots]

that is one neat looking bow
I gotta try that design now...but how to tiller...?
hey, the shelf is on the correct side this time!

Thank ya! lol, Ya, I am forcing myself to shoot on that side anymore. Mostly so I can get rid of the bows if I want to easier, but also so I can be able to shoot on both sides if I want. With this bow, I am shooting with arrows too heavy and spined to strong for the bow also, so it is a bit crazy, not only am I shooting on the side I usually don't, but I have to aim 3 feet to the right of my target to get the arrow to hit,... so it is all kinds of fun trying not to put holes in my siding, haha.

Very nice TMK.  You posted this at the right time for me.  I was gifted a nice piece of Ipe recently and this is close to what I'm thinking of doing with it.  May call on you for advise.  Like it a lot.

Thank you! I am always willing to help anybody when they need it, although I am not sure if I have enough experience to really be helpful. A real guru in this style like Marc st. Louis would probably be a lot more helpful than me, . Good luck with you ipe!

Don't expect an r/d to tiller in a perfect circle or oval like a straight bow. The whole idea is for the outer limbs to come back to straight and inner limbs to flex back a little more than a straight bow.  Think about what you have built in:  you have pre-designed the bow to bend farther back by virtue of the deflex; at the same time, you have pre-designed the outer limbs to bend from reflex back to straight.  Both limbs should travel about the same distance under stress.  You tiller is just about right for reflex/deflex design.  Trust me, I have built many of these.  If you try to make the outer limbs bend more, you will lose way too much weight and the reflex will pull out to straight permanently.  You will wind up with a very ugly and poorly-performing bow.  You can try different thicknesses of lams if you want, but your tiller looks fine to me. 

Makes sense.

[Arrowind]

Hey toomany,

I just found this.  I've been thinking of making something similar.  Very very coool dude.