Why does my jointer cut a taper for first couple inches of infeed?

[toomanyknots]

I picked up a cheap craftsman jointer from a pawn shop recently, to plain laminates to get them ready for glue up. Now I have never used a jointer before, so I am sure that the problems I have been having are completely my fault. The blades are pretty darn close to flush with the outfeed, although I am not super sure they should be anyhow though. The manual says that they should be the height of a piece of paper higher than the outfeed, and I have no idea how to measure that or get that right. One guy on youtube said that the blades should move a straight edge about a 1/8" to a 1/4" when you turn the blades with a straight edge on the outfeed. I tried that, and ending up getting snipe on the end of what I was plaining. The manual says that they should "tick" the straight edge, so I reset them flush, and I am pretty sure I got them tickin. Setting them flush with the outfeed, which I have heard other people say is the correct height, has got rid of the snipe, but my problem now is that the first couple inches of whatever I am plaining is tapered pretty dramatically. The rest of the length seems to be ok, without any tail end snipe. My outfeed and infeed are as close to coplainer as I have been able to check. When I feed the piece through, I try my best to push on mostly the outfeed, as I read that is good technique. Also, another thing, I don't know what could cause this, but sometimes it randomly sounds like it is "shifting gears", sorta. Like it will restart almost. Kinda weird. I got a 30 day warranty on it, so I am considering returning if I cannot get it working for me. Oh yeah, forgot, the fence is slightly warped. My square will read 90 at both ends, but them more than 90 in the middle? It seems like this would not be that big of a deal, since I really don't plan to joint anything with it, and simply plan to use it to face plane. Any ideas what might cause the taper, or how to get rid of it?

[Buckeye Guy]

Sounds like you are feeding it faster than your tool can handle !
Check your belt tension is it slipping ? That will give you the problems you describe !

The best way to eliminate end variance on cheap jointers is make your piece longer than you need and cut the bad area off after you are done !
Sorry that may not be what you wanted to hear but is often true !!

[DarkSoul]

No experience with adjusting a jointer (I do use one sometimes, but don't adjust it), so I'm just guessing here. Sounds like the outfeed table is too low? Try raising it, until the wood just clears it after feeding it through.

[toomanyknots]

Sounds like you are feeding it faster than your tool can handle !
Check your belt tension is it slipping ? That will give you the problems you describe !

The best way to eliminate end variance on cheap jointers is make your piece longer than you need and cut the bad area off after you are done !
Sorry that may not be what you wanted to hear but is often true !!

Thanks for the tip. Ya, it seems to "skip" or whatever it is doing whether I am using it or not. I guess that is a good idea, to cut my backings and cores, etc, as long as possible. I have read that a jointer will taper if the blades are not a little higher than the outfeed, do you think this might be the cause?

No experience with adjusting a jointer (I do use one sometimes, but don't adjust it), so I'm just guessing here. Sounds like the outfeed table is too low? Try raising it, until the wood just clears it after feeding it through.

Unfortunately, I can only adjust the blades, and the outfeed has no adjustment on this jointer I got. It is like a little toy sized jointer,  . It is a craftsman 4 1/8" model, model number 149.236223. This is a picture of the one I got:

[PEARL DRUMS]

I had similar issues. Generally it was me not supporting the finished section and allowing the back end to dip too low. To run a 65-70" piece through a jointer is really a 2 person operation.

[Buckeye Guy]

Sorry
It takes a whole lot more machine to guaranty that you wont have any problem !
 You may be able to find a way to get around your problem using some finessing ,
and some push blocks to hold your part down, but in all honesty you need hold down rollers and longer tables to get a decent job

One thing you can check but there may not be away to adjust is the fact of if the two tables are parallel with each other , if they are, then it is just the vibration and inability to hold parts !
Was your belt slipping ?

[Roy]

How thick of a cut do you have it set for? I never take more than 1/8th at a time, then when I get close to finished thickness I'll go down to 1/16th. Sounds to me like it's cutting the taper until the board gets up onto the outfeed table. Then that lifts it up off the blades a little. I keep my push blocks back away from the end about a foot when starting the feed and a foot from the end when finishing the feed. I found that pushing down on either end will force the taper you are talking about. You do us push blocks don't you? Jointers are very dangerous machines.

[toomanyknots]

How thick of a cut do you have it set for? I never take more than 1/8th at a time, then when I get close to finished thickness I'll go down to 1/16th. Sounds to me like it's cutting the taper until the board gets up onto the outfeed table. Then that lifts it up off the blades a little. I keep my push blocks back away from the end about a foot when starting the feed and a foot from the end when finishing the feed. I found that pushing down on either end will force the taper you are talking about. You do us push blocks don't you? Jointers are very dangerous machines.

I have been cutting from 1/16 to a 1/32, this jointer doesn't go farther than an eighth. It does seem to make more of a taper when it is a more aggressive cut though. I am using two bench dog push blocks from rockler. I tried two cheapos from menards, but they didn't even work. Thanks for the tip, I will try doing what you do, it does seems to be tapering until it passes over the outfeed to me.

Sorry
It takes a whole lot more machine to guaranty that you wont have any problem !
 You may be able to find a way to get around your problem using some finessing ,
and some push blocks to hold your part down, but in all honesty you need hold down rollers and longer tables to get a decent job

One thing you can check but there may not be away to adjust is the fact of if the two tables are parallel with each other , if they are, then it is just the vibration and inability to hold parts !
Was your belt slipping ?

I will go double check, I don't have a true straight edge just a square and a metal yard stick, so really I don't know for sure.

[Buckeye Guy]

How thick is your finished piece ? We may have to back it for stiffness .
Roy and Pearl are telling you the finessing tricks they have learned and that is what will get you there !

I only speak of machine worthiness so you can be sure of what you have before time is up !
I work on wood working machines all day long so Have some good understanding of best  .
Here we have a $200,000 machine to do this work with .
I am the one that fixes the machines .
 I know we can only part with so many of our hard earned dollars for a hobby !
That is where the finessing comes in to get us by with what we have !
I hope this all works out for you !
Have fun !!
Guy

[bow101]

Could be adjustments.  Usually you get (outfeed snipe) on the piece that leaves a dip on the end. Are you taking off to much material.?
Like the other guys say use a push piece behind. Proper pressure evenly applied as well, AND KEEP FINGERS AWAY....USE GLOVES ALWAYS.!

[toomanyknots]

Could be adjustments.  Usually you get (outfeed snipe) on the piece that leaves a dip on the end. Are you taking off to much material.?
Like the other guys say use a push piece behind. Proper pressure evenly applied as well, AND KEEP FINGERS AWAY....USE GLOVES ALWAYS.!

My problem right now is I am getting a taper on the first couple inches of the infeed end. I am thinking my blades might of been too low, or I am just smashing the piece into the blade for the first couple inches?, like Roy was saying? Or both? How do yall recommend I set the blades up? Should I go flush, or slightly higher? The manual recommended slightly higher, but I don't have anything I can measure a thousandth of an inch like it said. I have read that having the blades too low may cause a taper. I have also read where some people recommend setting up the blades to where, when you place a straight edge flush with the outfeed, and you turn the blade, that it moves the straight edge 2mm. This is how I just set them up so far (man that takes some patience to get those blades right). I could probably do a quick easy outfeed roller, (Wife asks "where did the rolling pin go" , I just pretend I don't know... ). I already dissembled one rolling pin to try to make a redneck drum sander,  . Good thing we have like 5.

How thick is your finished piece ? We may have to back it for stiffness .
Roy and Pearl are telling you the finessing tricks they have learned and that is what will get you there !

I only speak of machine worthiness so you can be sure of what you have before time is up !
I work on wood working machines all day long so Have some good understanding of best  .
Here we have a $200,000 machine to do this work with .
I am the one that fixes the machines .
 I know we can only part with so many of our hard earned dollars for a hobby !
That is where the finessing comes in to get us by with what we have !
I hope this all works out for you !
Have fun !!
Guy

Thank ya Guy, hopefully I can get er working. I will probably take your advice if I keep this darned thing and try to keep all my stock longer than I need, and just cut em off.

[Hamish]

You said you got the jointer from a pawn shop, the blades might be blunter than ideal. Worn/ blunt blades will give you a taper. If they are blunt resetting them to the proper height won't necessarily solve the problem. Get a fresh set of blades and a magnetic blade holding jig so you can set them at a consistent height. It can be a real pain, fiddling about, especially if the blade moves when you tighten the screws and can take ages.
Google "setting jointer blades" there are posts and tutorials that will clarify the process.
 Hamish

[Jim Davis]

Could be adjustments.  Usually you get (outfeed snipe) on the piece that leaves a dip on the end. Are you taking off to much material.?
Like the other guys say use a push piece behind. Proper pressure evenly applied as well, AND KEEP FINGERS AWAY....USE GLOVES ALWAYS

NO!!! DO NOT USE GLOVES. Gloves are the perfect way to get a jointer to keep on feeding your fingers into the knives until they run out of fingers. Use  push  blocks  and stay away from the blades.

My problem right now is I am getting a taper on the first couple inches of the infeed end. I am thinking my blades might of been too low, or I am just smashing the piece into the blade for the first couple inches?, like Roy was saying? Or both? How do yall recommend I set the blades up? Should I go flush, or slightly higher? The manual recommended slightly higher, but I don't have anything I can measure a thousandth of an inch like it said. I have read that having the blades too low may cause a taper. I have also read where some people recommend setting up the blades to where, when you place a straight edge flush with the outfeed, and you turn the blade, that it moves the straight edge 2mm. This is how I just set them up so far (man that takes some patience to get those blades right). I could probably do a quick easy outfeed roller, (Wife asks "where did the rolling pin go" , I just pretend I don't know... ). I already dissembled one rolling pin to try to make a redneck drum sander,  . Good thing we have like 5.

Put a sheet of printer  paper under your straight edge on the outfeed table. Then adjust the knives so they just touch the straight edge. (That's how you get a projection equal to the thickness of a piece of paper.)

If you watch craigs list, you should be able to pick up a 30-years-old or older (and consequently better) jointer for a good price. Look for a Delta, since they are  probably most common.

High or low knives will not cut a taper. They will cut a curve. Something is screwy.

Jim

[Roy]

This in feed taper you are talking about, are you meaning it cuts more off the very end of the board for a couple inches, then cuts the rest of the board ok? If so I would sharpen your blades to a razor edge and try again. Feed it very slowly through the blades.

[bow101]

NO!!! DO NOT USE GLOVES. Gloves are the perfect way to get a jointer to keep on feeding your fingers into the knives until they run out of fingers. Use  push  blocks  and stay away from the blades.

Every mans way of working works for himself I guess, others way don't work. You wear loose type gloves that can be pulled away quickly, no time you say, you would be surprised in what accidents I have avoided using machines and wearing Gloves..! Worst hand accident I rammed a 1/4" chisel into my pointing finger rite into the bone, if I was wearing gloves it would have been avoided.