When to induce reflex and or heat treat?

[Sidewinder]

I would like some comments on when in the bow buidling steps you guys like to induce reflex in a stave and or heat treat. Also, as far as white woods are concerned is there a difference as to how long on each spot you keep the heat.
 I recentley broke a hackberry bow I was heat trreating some reflex in and after 3days of resting it broke on the tree. I haven't broke one in 4yrs so it made me think I may need to get a little guidance. I have'nt been heat treating much of what I make but heard that heat treating on white woods helps with performance so I decided that I might want to start doing that.

Danny

[Pappy]

I do it right after it floor tillered.  I only heat treat mildly,not like some do and I do that while I am straighting and reflexing. 
   Pappy

[PEARL DRUMS]

I do it right after it floor tillered.  I only heat treat mildly,not like some do and I do that while I am straighting and reflexing. 
   Pappy

Yupper. I tend to heat treat a little darker Im sure, but its all the same if your not a hair splitter.

[blackhawk]

Ditto....I floortiller a stave to where I feel like I have ten pounds left and heat shape n temper all at once...then most times ill just tiller it out from there and won't temper it again...but I have retempered a few once I got to full draw cus some woods benefit having that second tempering

[richardzane]

Danny,
this is a good question, one thats been gnawing on me too.
because, of course once the wood has been tempered after floor tillering or after some beginning stages on the tiller,
there is still scraping and wood removal, and  it will remove much of what was "toasted" .
so ...a final fully tillered bow could actually be scraped of the tempered SURFACE....correct?
not that the heat treatment doesn't penetrate deeper into the limbs of course.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Richard color isnt always an indicator. Just because it doesnt look "toasted" doesnt mean the benefits are gone. Done correctley in penetrates through the wood to the back, slightly.

[osage outlaw]

I like to get a stave to floot tiller, round all the edges, and smooth it out before adding any reflex or other heat corrections.

[PrimitiveTim]

Done correctly it penetrates through the wood to the back, slightly.

What does that look like?

[richardzane]

thanks Pearl,
 good to know.  the heat treatment is a kind of working down into the bow from the belly.
I was envisioning two layers : the softer(untreated) back and the harder (treated) belly.
the belly surface as being hardened so that the softer back finds resistance as it tries to arc over the harder belly side

[PEARL DRUMS]

Im sure the temper lessens through the thickness, but done right it will hold it effects as you tiller down.

[coaster500]

My heat gun is not that great and takes a while to heat treat but it will toast wood. I like using olive oil and not toasting as much as deep heating to reflex and straighten. I like the oil because it keeps the wood from burning. I don't know if it's the right thing to do but I pretty much do it to all my staves when they are bending pretty well on the floor. It takes quite a while to do so that it holds its effect for me............

Want to try steam some day. Kind of curious?

[danny f]

does heat treating have benefits even if you dont ad reflex? and also how does ash respond to heat treatment,  and what benifits does it  have?  does it speed the bow up? or help reduce set? i dont know much about it. i have been thinking of having a go with tempering my next bow? thanks danny.

[PEARL DRUMS]

Ash loves it, as do most whitewoods. It greatly reduces set.

[bubby]

yeah Kip, steam for an hour and bend in some static's 

[Pat B]

When I'm heat treating/straightening and/or adding reflex I usually do it all at once and sometimes again near the end of tillering if I think it is needed. I don't use a holder for the heat gun but hold it in my hand, about an inch or so above the belly of the bow and move it back and forth in an area of about 6" or so. When I see the color changing I move down to the next 6", moving the heat gun back and forth for another 6" or so and occasionally back over what I'd done before. As I work my way out the limb I'll clamp it where ever needed and continue out the limb until it is complete. I will them go back over the whole limb to be sure it is good and hot them move to the other limb.
  I've toasted bellies until they are a chocolate brown but mostly until it is only slightly colored. For whitewoods like hickory or elm I go with a darker color but with osage I keep the color fairly light.
  If I have an area that needs a good bit of straightening or untwisting I'll oil the wood first. I think this gives a more even heat and holds the heat better. Oiling the wood first will help prevent scortching if that is what you want.