51 1/2" sinew back

[possum]

OK, I'm working on tillering my 2nd sinew back bow.  My first was a real flinger... at first.   After awhile it just stopped shooting as hard.  It was about 56" I guess.  I'm requiring my brain to recall 7 years ago or more.  It doesn't work that well.   Anyway, I figured the sinew just didn't get worked that well during birth.  Then it finally settled in and went below hunting weight.  Some neighborhood kid has it now along with my quiver made from my first deer full of arrows.  Anyway, the bow I'm working on now has, I think, four courses of sinew.  It's 51" ntn and I'm confused as heck as how the tiller should look.   My main question is how far from the tips should I keep stiff?  I'm pulling the bow on my tree around 25-30 times before I check the tiller.  I'm hoping that works the bow sufficiently to show the true effects of the tiller.  If anyone has a good picture of a short bow with proper (or proper enough) tiller that would be appreciated.  I'm intent on this bow working as intended.  235 fps, 45-50#@26",  heat seeking arrows, you know, working as intended.   

possum

[a finnish native]

my sinew backed shorty had a good tiller for 3 months and then a weak spot appeared. so I'd say that 25-30 times is nowhere enough. you should test shoot it with that draw that you have achieved and then see again.

[Justin Snyder]

I'm intent on this bow working as intended.  235 fps, 45-50#@26",  heat seeking arrows, you know, working as intended.   
possum

Well as long as you dont get greedy and ask to much of it you should be OK. 

[possum]

Yeah, OK, I s'pose you're right.  235 seems a bit much.  200 would be acceptable.  Or even 160-170.  Heat seeking would probably be bad seeing as how I'd probably be pretty heated up myself with my blood pumping as fast as it does in the prescence of my prey.

The bow is pulling about 50@22 and 60@24 or 25. 

I have cerebral palsy in the right side of my body and I've been working up to heavier draw weights and I was kinda hoping this would be around 60 pounds but when I draw it back I can "feel" all my joints shorten.   And I think my draw turns from 26 to around 23.   To add insult to injury I can't lock my right elbow which means all that 60 pounds is on my right arm.  I can pull all day long with my left arm but I can't push it all with the right.  Realistically, 50@26 is good for me but I need to know how far from the tips should stay stiff.  But 235 would be nice.

possum

[a finnish native]

The pounage depends dramatically on the moisture content of the air. in the fall my bow was 45# or something and during march it was 62# if I remember correctly 

[Kegan]

From my experience, it seems that wood fails if drawn more than half it's length for too long. If you shot that bow at 23", I'm sure it would last alot longer. I have a 62" sinew backed bow that is holding up quite nicely after several months of hard shooting, and only drawing it 25-26". Using a really strong compression wood, or somethng of the sort, might dramatically help the bow's longevity. Just my thoughts though, I could be wrong

[Marc St Louis]

It would help to know what style of bow it is, I gather it's not a static recurve. I would keep at least 4" of the tips stiff

[possum]

It is a standard American LB style, I guess.  4" handle and 1 1/2" fades.  1 1/2" wide tapering to 5/8 tips.  It's osage.  It's close to finishing, just wish I could find my other piece of beaver tail.

possum

[Ryano]

Thats short for a stiff handled straight limbed bow!  Its probally going to stack like a sob if the string doesn't pull off the nocks at 26" I would shorten up the handle section and flip up the tips if possible....

[Pappy]

I was thinking the same thing Ryan ,just didn't say it,according to what possum said it is already picking up about up about 5lbs. pr. inch at the end.They will shoot that way but are
tough .That is why I reworked my little Hickory,shot hard and fast but stacked like a dog.
   Pappy