BBO on the side?!?

[Buckeye Guy]

I have been looking for a peice like that for a edge grain self bow ,wish I had it !
But if your wanting a booback go for it !
Have fun !
Guy

[Roy]

Your welcome, Scott. Also where you place your mid limb posts determines the deflex to reflex ratio. The closer you place the mid limb posts to the riser the more deflex and less reflex you get. The closer to the tips you place the mid limb posts the less deflex and more reflex you get. General rule is placing them at exactly mid limb measuring from the end of the tips to the flares will yield a nice slightly deflexed with a little reflexed bow profile. You can slide the mid limb posts an inch or two either way to get a different profile. I wouldn't go more than two inches from mid limb either way. The theory is a bow with more deflex works more of the limb and will shoot a heavier arrow better, and a bow with more reflex works less of the limb and will shoot a lighter arrow faster.

[Stringman]

Makes sense. I will probably opt for dead middle for my first D/R. I will have to get the pieces shaved down first to see if there is enough wood to go forward. Is Unibond something you can find at a Home Depot, or will I have to order that?

Buckeye - I hear ya. Not often you find a piece of hedge that straight. Wish the stave was a little larger in dimension. Woulda been a fun build as a selfbow.

Scott

[bubby]

I don't know why it wouldn't make a selfbow, just a quarter sawn stave, I think halfeye posted a few of them, Bub

[Roy]

Three Rivers sells it.

[Stringman]

Ok here's an update...





I think I'm pretty close to glue up but I have a question first. Should I do something a out these depressions?




I thought about mixing glue with sawdust and filling it first then sanding after it dries before I glue hem together.

Scott

[blackhawk]

Id thin that boo down more..that's too thick...it should be somewhere around 1/8" in the middle tapering to 1/16" at the tips. ....

[BowEd]

Yep Stringman what Roy showed is exactly how I do it.Thanks Roy.A picture is worth a thousand words.It's just like what Dean torges form is like.Adjustable also.
The fellas who showed me to do glue ups have done hundreds if not thousands of bows that a way,and by the way blackhawk those fellas are not novices using smooth on either.Never used Unibond but I'm sure it's good stuff.Your idea of filling those gaps should work if they are'nt like 1/4" deep.Hedge can handle that thicker bamboo without crushing but it's really not the right way.You'll end up reducing your hedge quite thin for your poundage.I would'nt over reduce your nodes on your bamboo either on the back side.The natural top view taper of your bamboo takes care of your tiller mostly.Reducing your bamboo to the same thickness the whole length and Roy's right don't crush a line on the back of that bamboo with a c clamp.
You're gonna like what you'll get.The handle you can get creative with putting thin 1/8" slats in between for accents etc.bloodwood,purpleheart,the list is endless.

[BowEd]

Your core is tapered of course too.Boy if i remember right if you start out at 7/16" thick at the handle it'll be enough of a bow up to 70# for sure.How you get the taper done on your core is up to you just so it's done evenly the whole length.There usually is'nt much tillering to do after the glue up is done.Practically all the tillering work is done to the parts before you glue it up.

[Stringman]

Thanks, Ed. Yeah I plan to thin the boo up still yet, and I am trying to get both pieces tapered and matched before going forward. I would like for this bow to come in around 60-65# so the thickness isn't a problem yet. I think I'm gonna go ahead and order some Unibond but should I still fill those void first or let the epoxy do the job? Also, it looks like I might need to heat in a little reflex before glue up. Is that true?

Scott

[BowEd]

Will your thickness taper eliminate some of that gap?If it is'nt in the working portion of the bow you should'nt need to worry.I imagine unibond is a gap filling glue as smooth on is.I've read smooth on is good to 1/16th" gap filling capabilities.Hard to tell  without looking at the wood itself here.

[Stringman]

Alright I got the Unibond in the mail and I'm wondering how to fill those voids. I see 3 options. Leave them and let the glue fill them. Fill with Titebond then sand smooth after it cures, or do the same with Unibond. I guess what I'm concerned about is whether the epoxy will bond with the wood glue mixed with sawdust? Any ideas?

Scott

[DarkSoul]

I wouldn't be comfortable with such a (filled) cavity between my belly and bamboo backing, UNLESS it was strengtened with an additional handle right there. Could you remove more osage? Or is it already pretty thin? You could consider adding a third core laminate to beef up the blank, which means the osage can be thinner.
How did you flatten the osage and boo? I hope you used something better than a spoke shave.

[Stringman]

It was split to begin with. After some minor flattening with a drawknife or spoke shave I used a planer to flatten it further. If I took it down any more I am afraid the thickness might not allow a hunting weight bow. I had hoped that this void could be filled with a glue/wood fiber mix and then covered with a backing. Actually that is my plan. My concern is that the 2 glues won't bind with each other.

Scott

[Roy]

To be honest, that void scares me to death. How deep is it? I also would thin the Osage to get the void out and add a thin core lam in the glue up. Tri lam bows are sharp and good shooters. Why take the chance of having a failure by filling the void with glue?