Author Topic: Finish (Read 4563 times)

bow101 · « **on:** November 14, 2012, 12:04:28 am »

I noticed a lot of Bowyers have a thing for Tru-Oil. Any other oil finish that's considered.

Cloudfeather · « **Reply #1 on:** November 14, 2012, 01:56:48 am »

I've yet to use tru-oil on snake skins, but I can say that it doesn't work too well on carp. :/

bubby · « **Reply #2 on:** November 14, 2012, 02:13:56 am »

tung oil works great, Bub

osage outlaw · « **Reply #3 on:** November 14, 2012, 02:24:57 am »

I use Tru-oil and spray polyurethane.

lostarrow · « **Reply #4 on:** November 14, 2012, 10:24:45 am »

I've been using teak oil. dries fast , easy maintenance , good penetration , warm glow .It's like tung oil. Made for exterior wood surfaces.

Pappy · « **Reply #5 on:** November 14, 2012, 11:10:15 am »

I use rub on Tru oil and sometimes spray ploy,it work fine for me over snake skins and had no trouble over carp skins.
Pappy

Dictionary · « **Reply #6 on:** November 14, 2012, 11:26:14 am »

where do you guys get these finishes? Can they be found at Home Depot,Lowes, or hardware store?

Weylin · « **Reply #7 on:** November 14, 2012, 11:40:57 am »

Tru-oil is a gunstock finish so it would be found at a gun store or a sporting goods store. I ordered mine online. Things like tung oil, teak oil and poly could all likely be found at Lowes.

Cloudfeather · « **Reply #8 on:** November 14, 2012, 07:25:19 pm »

Quote from: Pappy on November 14, 2012, 11:10:15 am

I use rub on Tru oil and sometimes spray ploy,it work fine for me over snake skins and had no trouble over carp skins.
Pappy

Poly over carp has worked for me, but tru oil doesn't seem to want to cure. Any suggestions?

Dictionary · « **Reply #9 on:** November 14, 2012, 09:45:37 pm »

i just picked up some Minwax Polyurethane Satin...........gonna use it for arrows and the next bow i make. I'll see how it looks/functions.

Dvshunter · « **Reply #10 on:** November 14, 2012, 09:53:04 pm »

I have used all the above and I keep going back to shellac. Goes on easy, dries faster than any of the above is hard as a rock and dries on oily woods like cocabolo and also does great on snake skins. I have never used fish skins yet. Plus it is easy to fix a spot like a drip or run just by adding more to it. It also blends well and costs 13 bucks a can. The downside is you need more coats to thicken it up and it goes bad a bit faster. Keep in mind that with New shellac and proper drying conditions to can put on 10 coats in one day.

Pappy · « **Reply #11 on:** November 15, 2012, 08:01:37 am »

Sled,just make sure the skins are cured and free of oil,then I put on a pretty heavy
coat and let dry over night and then lightly buff with 000 steal wool from grip to tip and a coat a day until it is smooth,I do wipe it down with acetone before I start. Tru Oil needs a good drying time between coats,that is the only problem I see with it,but I usually ant in any big hurry so it works good for me. If you put
another coat on before the first is dry and cured the lower coat won't dry.

Pappy

Jim Davis · « **Reply #12 on:** November 15, 2012, 05:47:10 pm »

I'll never have to worry about putting a finish on a snake skin, though I am will to finish a snake!

I used Walmart Colorplace spray lacquer for bows and arrows until the buzzards quit stocking it. Now I use lacquer sanding sealer. Makes a nice finish in one coat and dries in a half hour.

Jim Davis

bow101 · « **Reply #13 on:** November 15, 2012, 07:16:53 pm »

............until the buzzards quit stocking it. Good 'ole Wally World. If they have a problem with something they usually stop stocking the item.

Quote from: asharrow on November 15, 2012, 05:47:10 pm

I'll never have to worry about putting a finish on a snake skin, though I am will to finish a snake!

I used Walmart Colorplace spray lacquer for bows and arrows until the buzzards quit stocking it. Now I use lacquer sanding sealer. Makes a nice finish in one coat and dries in a half hour.

Jim Davis

Cloudfeather · « **Reply #14 on:** November 15, 2012, 07:46:05 pm »

Thanks, Pappy. When I do carp skins, I let them sit in the sun and leach the oils, cleaning them with acetone multiple times. I think the culprit is inadequate drying time of the first coat of tru oil. It's very tacky to the touch still.

Primitive Archer