Author Topic: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.  (Read 10934 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline Jesse

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,129
new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« on: August 28, 2007, 09:23:39 pm »
This is a R/D boo backed ipe. It is actually a tri lam I guess. I sliced off an 1/8" of the ipe and glued it back to the piece it came from during the glue up.  It measures 66" n.t.n. 1  1/4" at the handle and tapers to 3/8" at nocks. I am shooting for 55-60# at 27" In this picture its pulling 45# I would like to keep posting my progress and get all of your expert advice. This one has to work because I am giving it to the owner of the local archery shop. He saw me shooting the other boo backed ipe I posted a while back and he asked me how much I would charge to make him one. He seemed so interested that I couldnt help myself I told him I would make him one no charge. I know he will use it. I want to build this one for speed I was thinking to leave the outer limbs reflexed a little at full draw as I am told it makes it faster.      Well lets get started we have a bow to build                                               Jesse
« Last Edit: August 28, 2007, 11:47:38 pm by WIBOWYER »
"If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere."
    --Frank A. Clark

Rich Saffold

  • Guest
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help
« Reply #1 on: August 28, 2007, 11:47:51 pm »
Jesse, You have a good start so far. what I see which could become a problem is where the limbs are curved into reflex. Care must be taken so  you have enough taper in both width and thickness. If they get too square they can twist sideways, and that isn't fun.

Rich-

Offline Jesse

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,129
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #2 on: August 29, 2007, 12:07:55 am »
Thanks Rich  The center of the curve where it reflexes is 1/2" thick by 3/4 wide does that seem right? I cant change the back so if I understand you right I might bee better off with  thinner ipe thus less draw weight but a more stable bow? I think the ipe will get a lot thinner before I get to 60# at 27" I hope so . I dont want that sideways thing happening.                              Jesse
"If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere."
    --Frank A. Clark

Rich Saffold

  • Guest
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #3 on: August 29, 2007, 02:13:28 am »
Jesse, that sounds good, I think just being aware of of your limb cross sections is half the key. These bows get so much smaller from the tips in, for a given poundage it just takes a bit of getting used to..I put some oil on an 80#er a couple days ago and I was looking at the lower tip and it's actually a hair taller than square..Just what I tell folks to avoid, but it's stable so I'm not going to mess with it.

Your bow is looking good!

Rich

Offline medicinewheel

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,629
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #4 on: August 29, 2007, 04:00:12 am »

AAAAAHHH....... n i c e !!
frank
Frank from Germany...

Offline Jesse

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,129
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #5 on: August 29, 2007, 10:05:40 pm »
Well Rich you were right I didnt even get it to full brace and I saw the top limb start to twist. Im afraid I will not get the draw wheight I was looking for. This one might go to the wife and I will start a new one with lessons learned. The next will be the same except for the width. I will not taper so fast. I will post the outcome of this one. I think 50# at 27 is still possible with this one which aint bad. Thanks for looking
                                                                                       Jesse
« Last Edit: August 29, 2007, 10:08:15 pm by WIBOWYER »
"If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere."
    --Frank A. Clark

Rich Saffold

  • Guest
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #6 on: August 30, 2007, 02:41:17 am »
Jesse, Even if you hit 50# and have a hint of reflex it should shoot plenty fast..Here's a couple tricks which will help you get more stability and poundage.

Actually the taper from the handle out is fine. The last 8" or from the center of the curves needs to taper more. Also overlays which make the tip section taller than wide will amplify the instability. And usually on bows like these I trim the bamboo at an angle  where the overlay goes so the knot or loop is flush with the back of the bamboo or very close.

So by shortening your bow to 62-64" will locate the limb curve farther out, and combined with sharpening the taper, and changing the overlay will make this bow  stable. It might make the poundage you want as well.. Shortening will allow you to also remove a small amount of belly wood which can also change the limb profile in your favor by getting it a little wider relative to the depth. On reflexed bows like yours subtle changes can make a large improvement.

Also if the limbs  wants to go one way, the nock placement can be  adjusted by filing in one side to bring the string towards the other side.

sometimes when I string up a  reflexed slender ipe bow the limbs may wander to one side, and I use these tricks to straighten it.

Rich

Offline Jesse

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,129
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #7 on: August 30, 2007, 08:45:34 am »
Thanks again I will try your suggestions.
                                                  Jesse
"If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere."
    --Frank A. Clark

Offline Jesse

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,129
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #8 on: August 30, 2007, 10:17:53 am »
Ok I didnt cut it shorter yet I thined it down a lot and dropped the weight. It took a lot to get it straight again. I now this tiller looks funny and I couldnt figure out why the left limb which is the lower limb looked shorter so I measured it again for peace of mind and its 3/4" shorter Wow somebody made a mistake. So my next thought is Do I shorten only the upper limb or do I shorten both and tiller it better? Right now its about 45# and this is full draw of 27".    Need advice.   Nows the time  Should I  just put it aside and consider it a lesson or try and fix it?
                                                                         
"If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere."
    --Frank A. Clark

Rich Saffold

  • Guest
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #9 on: August 30, 2007, 08:08:33 pm »
 Jesse, I'd shoot it and then decide. If you like how it shoots then you can leave it. If it feels a bit soft you can try shortening it and seeing how it shoots. Either way you have learned a bundle and those reading these threads will benefit as well. Tiller look like several I have made with  similar unbraced profiles so I wouldn't worry about it.

Thats the biggest benefit from this combination. You can  make plenty  of bows cheap, experiment with them,  and have a good time with a bit of challenge.

Rich

Offline venisonburger

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,042
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #10 on: August 30, 2007, 08:18:52 pm »
I agree with Rich, shoot it and see how it feels, I think the full draw profile looks really good.
VB

Offline Jesse

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,129
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #11 on: August 31, 2007, 01:32:49 am »
Thanks guys I just got home from work and its way too late to shoot but hopefully I will get a chance tomorrow evening. 
                                                                                                                                                Jesse
"If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere."
    --Frank A. Clark

Offline Jesse

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,129
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #12 on: August 31, 2007, 10:53:04 pm »
Ok I shot it a dozzen times or so. Its got a little kick to it but its surprisingly fast. I would like it to be a little heavier though. Going back to my question about shortening it. How much weight can I expect to gain by going down from 66 n.t.n. to 64 n.t.n.? Should I shorten them the same amount or make the limbs even? Right now bottom limb is shorter. I was thinking if I just cut new nocks very shallow I could keep going down the limbs till I find my weight. Does that sound good?
                                                                                                                                                            Jesse
"If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere."
    --Frank A. Clark

Rich Saffold

  • Guest
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #13 on: September 01, 2007, 12:03:50 am »
Suprisingly fast ;D ;)  Jesse, Ideally that bow is probably going to shoot better at 28-29" draw and maybe with less kick since it might expend more energy into the arrow. Personally I don't care if you make the lower limb shorter than the upper since I'm accustomed to getting bowth to shoot fine.

At 64" you will probably get 5-10#'s , but probably closer to 7. You could shorten more, and if you are shooting light arrows could be a good idea..10gr. per# 64" is what I would try.

Rich

Offline Jesse

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,129
Re: new R/D bow started would like your help.pics.
« Reply #14 on: September 01, 2007, 12:29:49 am »
Thanks again Rich Its tempting to just shape the handle and leave it like it is but then I have to make another right away because I told him it would be 55-60 #. Not that it takes long to make these things. I spend more time just starring at the bows. Actual work time is only a few hours. Its figuring out what I want and how Im going to do it that takes me a while.                                                  Jesse
"If you can find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere."
    --Frank A. Clark