Japanese arrow bamboo would grow where you are. I've got some growing in Mid-Michigan (but slowly ). It is not very top hardy in a cold winter but the rhizomes survive so you should be OK down there. If you have a place where you don't worry about it running, just plant it there. Otherwise, dig a trench about 8 inches deep around it and fill with leaves. Each year just go around the trench and cut any runners that cross the trench. It's roots (rhizomes ) and runners do not go very deep so you can forget about the 4ft deep barrier. You'll need an area about 10 ft in diameter or so to get enough each year and it will take at least five years to get established. IF you are going to transplant bamboo, be sure that you take a large pieces of the rhizomes and don't move it when it is shooting or close to shooting. ie, move in early spring or after it shoots (a month at least ). Don't plant deeper that it was planted before, keep it moist NOT soaking (bamboo does not like to have wet feet ). IF it is a type with lots of leaves, take half of them off when you transplant (especially in full sun) because it will have problems pumping water to them when transplanted. btw: the rhizomes look just like the runners but with small roots all over them. Be careful when moving them. Bamboos can dry out easily when transplanted. If it's a tall bamboo, stake it to keep it upright. If it's really tall with lower leaves, then cut the culm in half to minimize the water it needs. With all that said, I've been very successful transplanting bamboo.
Bamboo is just like crab grass. It pops up and then sends runners off to spread itself. If you cut off the end of the runner, it will send a branch runner off at the next closest joint. The culms sprout every year, last about three years and then die. Once a culm gets to full height, it never grows again. Mine will drop leaves in a really cold February (like below 0 when everything is frozen and the roots can't pump water) but will leaf out again in the spring if the culm is still alive (less than three). I've got a phyllostachys flexuosa that is 20 ft high and the roots and rhizomes are only about six inches deep. (This one is good for atlatl darts BUT, it's 8 years old, fully established and running for the fences at full speed. I'm going to have to do some major surgery on it this year. )
It will take several years to establish itself and after that it will shoot in late spring or early summer. Each year the shoots will be bigger until it finally gets established and shoots to it 'adult' height. Bamboo deposits silicon in its cell walls as it ages and that is what makes it so tough. New culms are very tender (you can eat them) and only get tougher as they age.
Arrow bamboo is lighter walled, straight, and doesn't have many branches so it makes perfect arrow stock.
You might also look at the 4 foot bamboo stakes from Ben Meadows: They are solid and heavy but make a good heavy arrow.
I got a 500 box of 5/8 (I think ) two years ago... I'm set for a while... about half of them are OK to use. Note: I got one size from then and had to return it because they were too small. I might have gotten the 7/16 stakes... I just don't remember... (old age and steel sieve brain ).
or from Bamboo Supply. They also have good prices on stakes
Stakes from both vendors are natural colors.
Carol Meckes from Texas also sells Arrow Bamboo at reasonable prices
bamboo@texas.netYou should also be able to find some river cane down by you. Get some and plant it and preserve the species.
