tillering a bow long

[possum]

I'm working on a black locust bow.  It is 72" long, 1 1/4 wide at fades.  I draw 26".  I was wondering how you would tiller it knowing there's a good chance you will shorten it.  If I tiller it now with the last 6" not bending but then shorten 4" won't that just make it the last two inches not bending or will narrowing the tips cause that 2x4 effect where it will get stiffer?  I love the BL wood and this is the last piece I have.  Also, what are the options s far as draw weight with the width I have at 72" and at , let's say 68"?

possum

[1/2primitive]

I would just tiller it normally, the pike it, and this would result in pretty good tiller, but the draw weight will be higher.
     Sean

[D. Tiller]

I agree with Sean. Build it to the longer lentgth then pike it and retiller to the weight you want. Heck I would shoot it a bit at the longer length for a while. That way it will take the set and be broken in when you retiller it. I have heard thats what was done with english longbows. I've done it once before but was using some cheap wood I got a hold of and cant really determine from that what happens. Best I can say is go for it and see what happens!

David T

[Kegan]

Sean is right- tiller it normally, though avoid having it too stiff near the handle, and stiff tips won't be as big as a problem.

[Justin Snyder]

If you want a 72" bow tiller that sucker to the weight you want and leave it.  If you want a 68" bow, cut the sucker now and tiller it to the weight you want.  Why mess around with all the extra length if you don't want it when done.  Lets say you tiller it to 60#@72".  You pike it 4" to 68" and the weight will go up to around 78#.  You will wind up tillering the bow again anyway.   Cut it now and tiller it once.  Justin

[SimonUK]

I often wonder about the compromise between a long bow (with little set) and a short bow (with little inertia of it's tips). Every bit of wood is different and there must be an optimum length of bow for any given piece of wood. Why not make a bow long and gradually shorten it, inch by inch until it becomes clear that you're reaching maximum performance, then stop.

I'd like to do this one day, but I just don't have the time right now. Has anyone else tried it, and is it worth all the effort?

[DCM]

I frequently build a bow to full draw or nearly full draw with the intention to shorten it.  Allows me the opportunity to get good tiller with the least amount of wood fatigue.  But I'm not in a rush to get a bow finished, on the contrary the experience is what I'm after.  I have probably fooled myself, but I think a better bow results.  I believe this techinique is mentioned in Toxophilus.

Tiller it like you want the finished bow.  If you shorten it, that will have a tendancy to stiffen the outer limbs.  Draw weight is only limited by the quality of the wood, and one's craftsmanship.  For 26" draw, 70# or 80#, at 68" and 72" respectively, would not be out of the question IMHO.  But I've only made 2 or 3 black locust bows.  For 26" draw, I would not go for full compass unless you get down to 66" or shorter and/or what a ton of draw weight.

[Badger]

I make bows all the time with the option of piking in mind. , I like to peak and tweak bows a bit after they are finished and piking works out very well when doing this. Steve

[MattE]

Either way can work, I didn't say will work! If you are a novice at making bows start with the length you want your bow to be. It is easier to get the right answer. If you have made as many bows as David, Marc or Steve you can get away with practicaly any length. These fellows know pretty much what they want and how it will look when the bend changes after shortening.

[Pappy]

I'm with David and Steve,I start most if I have the wood at 68 with no intension of leaving them that long,If things go well I may pike early if not I do it when I have it like I want it.Gives you a little room to play.It generally won't change the tiller much ,just adds some weight and that is not a problem to reduce.
   Pappy

[Coo-wah-chobee]

                     Hmmm...............like Pappy said, room fer error ! ......bob