anyone know anything about metals and swords

[fishfinder401]

i have recently go into sword making, im finishing my first right now, and im already planning a second, and keeping with my habbit of overdoing things i want it BIG, although not huge, i am still learning. as far as my question on metal, what is you opinion on using 1095 carbon steel for a sword, i found a suitable piece but i have heard mixed reports, some say to fragile, others say its great
what are your opinions on this
thanks
noel

[JW_Halverson]

Move to Japan, apprentice to a real swordsmith, learn to fold steel and iron into the deadliest pastry you ever saw!   

Shouldn't take you more than 50 or 60 years to become a Master.

[fishfinder401]

hate to tell you, but i am already a master............... at every possible skill
the one i want to make is somewhat like this, just not as fancy

[JW_Halverson]

hate to tell you, but i am already a master, at every possible skill

I need to take you fishing, what level "baiter" are you?   

[fishfinder401]

think of the highest level you can, then add 5
i guess you could say i am a master

[beetlebailey1977]

1095 is a great high carbon steel easy to heat treat.

[fishfinder401]

im curious, what would you think an old farriers rasp is, that's what i made my current sword from

[jonathan creason]

Hard to say on the ferrier's rasp, could be 1095, could be W1, could be something else entirely.  1095 should work ok for a sword, but I'd draw it way back.  You're going to want it soft enough that you don't snap it.  I'd probably opt for 1070-1080 type steels as far as the simple carbon steels go.  Or good ol 5160.

[fishfinder401]

i looked for the 1070 and 1080, but 1095 was the only thing i could readily find. the piece i found was a 12"x1"x1" chunk, judging by its volume i could get the desired size out of it. if it weren't for the possibility of stress fractures i would use a leaf spring, still might actually if i find a good one

[jonathan creason]

Look up Aldo, aka the NJ steel baron. Best steel and prices you're gonna find on the www.  Leaf springs can be great, but they're still a bit of a crap shoot. They may be 5160, they may be 4140, and they may be something else. Most American made vehicles from the 50's and 60's will have 5160 leaf springs.  Of course, you still have the stress issue to deal with.

[fishfinder401]

wow, i just checked out their materials, they have exactly what i need, thanks

[crooketarrow]

  The l095 is a old steel so to speek. It was used mostly for saw mill blades. And ateel black smiths used a lot. There was a time when there was'nt many kinds of steel 1095 was one of them. It's a good simply edge steel. After it's anealed it's easy to harden and retemped. A good steel to start with for sure. I make a couple kives every winter from it and have sence high shool. There lots of better steels I've used them all. But old saw mill blades are easy and cheap to find. I buy a couple everyyear at flea markets from 5 to 30 dollors.
  I made swords by smithing a swords a big ambishion and a lot of hammering.
 

[fishfinder401]

how would i anneal a 4ft piece for the 1095 i am looking at the 48x3x1/4
i am also looking at the 1080 1x1x40 or the 3/4x3/4x40, what size could i get out of these two
thanks
noel

[Mechslasher]

i'd hammer out a couple 12-14" bowies before i would start on a sword.  1095 would make a great bowie.

[fishfinder401]

i am actually finishing up my first sword right now , and i realize it is hard work, my arm can attest to that. its total length is about 21-22 inches and is too thick, so i am going to lengthen and thin it a little , when i make this larger sword, i am planning on taking a few months to make it, take my time, get the tempering right and make it look shiny