Ocean Spray sapling build allong

[Elktracker]

Ok so here is the sapling I am going to start on its a Ocean Spray (Iron Wood) and is hard to find a good sapling with any size in most places but I have some decent size stuff in my area on the coast (Netarts).

This particular sapling is 1" at one end and 3/4" at the end toward the ceiling. It is pretty darn straight and has a small crook near the grip wich should be nice because it will help get me more of a center shot and arrow spine shouldnt be as critical because the arrows wont have to flex around the bow as much. I should be able to get some progress done on this tonight and tomorrow.

I am shooting for 50# at 26" of draw and will leave the handle area stiff, this sapling is 68" long but I may have to shorten it if I under shoot the draw weight but we will see what happens




This is the side profile of the sapling, as you can see it has a small amount of reflex. The back of the bow is facing up in this picture. I have trimmed a small amount of the one limb with a band saw to remove some checking or cracks in the belly of the bow to see how deep they went and I am all clear.


Bear with me as I only have usually 1 night a week to work on bows but ill try not to drag this out to long 

Josh

[Elktracker]

Ok so first I will show you the main tools I use to tiller.



Then there is the tiller tree


The stave press I was gifted from John Strunk, a vice will also work with something in it to protect the wood while working on it.



 My very messy shop/basement/dungen sorry about the mess!

[Elktracker]

So the first thing I do is measure the length of the stave I am working on and find the center, after finding center I decide what limb will be my top limb. When deciding on this I look at where the string will alighn down the stave from end to end and if its not down the center I like the string to favor the side of the bow that the arrow rests.

Also I take into account knots, twists, turns or rollercoaters to determine how I want the bow layed out. I usually try to make the stronger looking limb the bottom as it is usually taking more stress then the top limb.

Once I decide what limb is top I go back to the center mark and measure up toward the top limb 1" and make a mark, then I measure 3" down from the center mark toward the bottom limb and also mark it, This will be my grip and it will be a 4" grip. This is what it looks like when its marked out. Also this is just the way I lay out a grip because it balances good in my hand and its the way I have always done it.


The next thing I do is start my limb thickness taper, I start the taper right off of the grip, this is called the fades where the grip fades into the limb. While doing this I am constantly standing back looking at the limb to spot out any thick spots and also feeling for them as I go, always being very carefull not to get caried away and take to much wood off. Its real easy to turn a 50 pound bow into a 30 or 40# bow if your not carefull and rush things.


And here it is after I have it where I think its a even taper from the grip down to the tip


After this I check to see how its bending and to what we call floor tillered, in the picture you can see its not a perfect arc (and it should be closer) but I had it bending good so I moved to the other limb and when that was floor tillered it was ready for a string (not going to go into making strings). Also for me I like to get the limb bending a fair amount before cutting string grooves and long string.


Then I measure out the tapers for the tips, I like a light tip, it makes for a fast smooth shooting bow. I start the measurment at 1/2" at the tip and I will take that down as im finishing it


I usually come back from the tip around 9" or so with the limb tip taper but its just a number you can do what works for your particular bow.


Then I carfully cut them out, I always cut on the outside of the line to allow for human error.


And this is what it looks like once cut out

[Elktracker]

Then I start the string grooves, I measure an even distance from the center mark out each limb to mark the string grooves. I file them in at 45 degree angle roughly.




Then I sand the rough sharp edges smooth so they dont damage the string.



Then I fix a problem I found earlier


I use this stuff it soaks into small cracks well and works great, it is a little spendy but cheaper if you buy it by the case. and notice what it says NO SKILL REQUIRED so for me it is perfect


Then I clamp it for 15 minutes or so.


Then its up on the tiller tree for a light work out and a check of the tiller, I see a couple stiff spots on both limbs I will need to fix but thats another day.



Also if any one wants to throw out suggestions comments or concerns let me know thanks.

Josh

[Elktracker]

Also I wanted to add a little test I did on this Ocean Spray and it is tough stuff! it was almost folded in half before it broke and this pice was just shy of 3/4"



Then I let off to see what it looked like not bad at all, this stuff is tough as nails and really springs back!


Then I went for it


right befor it whipped out and cracked me in the ankle lol


Then I killed it

[Dazv]

I'm really looking forward to seeing how this one come out.

[Elktracker]

Thanks DAZV I am too! I am hopeing I dont blow it lol if I come in under weight thats ok too, I may try heat treating this bow to, not sure yet.

Sorry the pictures are crappy but I am forced to use my cell phone now so it is what it is. Also I am going to leave the bark on as this is how John Strunk does it with his OS saplings and I think it looks pretty good.

Josh

[TurtleCreek]

  great build along, looking forward to your next posting

[TurtleCreek]

  great build along, looking forward to your next posting

[Elktracker]

Thanks turtlecreek!

[bubby]

thank's for doing this Josh, I like seeing how different guy's work with woods i haven't used, and a bark on sapling bow is just cool, Bub

[Elktracker]

Thanks bubby I am gonna get some work done on her tonight ill update my progress tomorrow. I have never done one quite this small but I have seen some OS bows John Strunk has made and they turned out beautiful with the bark on

Josh

[Elktracker]

Ok so I got a chance to work on the bow for a while last night and didnt make a ton of progress but here is what I did.

So first thing I did was got the bow back up on the tree on a low brace height like 3" and gave it a few pulls never pulling further than the intended draw weight or farther than I need to see where there may be a spot I need to take more wood off on the limbs, where the limb isnt bending enough.

Here are the spots I was seeing that needed some scrapeing with the pocket knife.


After I mark the spots with a pencil I give each spot about 10 to 15 scrapes.


After taking wood off where its not bending I exercise the bow a good amount, I short draw the bow in my hands about 30 times and then check the tiller again on the tree, at this point I have got the bow up to the 6" brace height I usually go with but sometimes I mess with the brace as there is usually a sweet spot I have found between 5 1/2" and like 6 1/4" but that could just be in my head


The left limb looked ok to me but the right still had some issues


Then out of no where I got a bright idea that I wanted to try heat treating this bow and while doing so add in some reflex. I have heard good things about Ocean Spray and heat treating so I figured I would give it a try and see what happened, plus I could see I was going to be under weight and hoped to add a few pounds by heat treating.

This is the process of how I heat treat a bow and add reflex. The best way would probably be to build a form and have a better setup for the heat gun but I do things kinda the hillbilly way as you have seen


This is how I clamp the bow to add the reflex


Then I have my heat gun holder, here is how it ballances on the bow. Not the nicest setup in the world but it works



I use oil on the wood while heat treating it as it helps the heat soak in and keeps the wood from burning, you can use any cooking oil.


I turn the heat gun on the low setting and just watch for the wood to turn a golden brown, it usually takes about 5 minutes or so in each spot.


This section has been lightly toasted


And here is the limb after it has been completely finished and then I let it cool completely before un clamping or it wont hold the reflex.


I wasnt sure how much reflex it would hold but it ended up holding more than I though it would, here is what it looks like now. It might be a bit much but we will see how it goes. I still need to do the other limb and also after heat treating you want to let the wood rehidrate because at this point it is dangerously dry and the chances of breaking are allot higher.
I will let it sit for a minimum of a week in a cool place to get the woods moisture content back up then bring it back into the house where the bow will live when not being shot.

Here is a shot of the one limb that has been heat treated and reflexed ( I hope not too much)


I will heat treat the other limb as soon as possible and then wait a week or more for the wood to get the moisture content it wants to have. Thanks for looking

[fishfinder401]

i got worried for a second until you said you only did it to one limb

[Elktracker]

i got worried for a second until you said you only did it to one limb

What do you mean I have already done both limbs the last photo is the unbraced profile

No truthfully yes I have to add the same amount of reflex and heat treat the other limb lol I am hoping she will hold together for me but I think it will, this is very strong wood!

Josh