sharpening?????

[1ahBprimitive]

iv so far managed to make a few arrow heads and lots of flakes im wondering if there is some trick to ''sharpening'' the edge? if i grind the edge to make platforms the edge becomes to thick ;if dont grind it the edge is to fragile and i get short steps and/or crushing iv been using a copper tipped pressure flaker with 1'' thick plate glass and have been experminting with hard hammer percussion sorry i did not mean presser flaking 1'' glass lol i am using percussion then pressure

[aaron]

rather than abrading, i use the flaker to set up platforms. I take a couple of tiny flakes in the same direction as the flake I am setting up for- this thickens the edge but not too much. It also creates some convexity to the edge. Then with a nice sharp flaker, take as big a flake as you dare. Space the next flake as far as you can down the edge and repeat. With this method, you'll loose some width, so your point has to start wider than the finished size. Toward the tip, flakes become smaller. I try to get the very tip of the point perfect- that is sharp and centered.

[bushman]

rather than abrading, i use the flaker to set up platforms. I take a couple of tiny flakes in the same direction as the flake I am setting up for- this thickens the edge but not too much.

Not tryin to hi-jack your thread 1ahBprimitive but Aaron I was always wondering how exactly you go about removing small flakes in the same direction as the flake you are about to remove. Are you taking off a few short, steep flakes from the opposite side you are planning on removing the large flake from to make the platform for it or what exactly are the steps you take and on what side of the point are you doing them too? Thanks
Bushman

[aaron]

while sharpening my hunting points yesterday, I tried to analyse what i do... and i don't always follow the same steps. the important thing for me is to create platforms using short (1mm) flakes- this creates a strong edge, allowing a longer, deeper sharpening flake. The flaker tip is placed right on the edge, but hopefully, the fracture initiates above the point of pressure and the flaker does not hit the new edge as I follow through. These flakes should also be wide, so that they create a nice long section of new edge. The result should be a wavy "sinuous" edge, rather than the "micro-serrated" look on some points. This is just my preference.
But to answer bushmans question, here are the steps to the technique when it works well.
1. get the point to where it essentially looks done- except that it's 1/4 (or 3/16) inch too wide. we'll remove a series down each edge that will remove 1/8 (or 3/32) in width.
2. starting at the base (usually), i take about three steep and tiny flakes spaced less than 1mm apart. these are about 1-2 mm long. they create a steep edge angle. I sometimes do a very gentle shearing on this section of edge to reduce it's sharpness. We are about to take a flake in the same direction as these tiny steep ones.
3. place the flaker tip right on the edge- it is strong because it's steep angled and perhaps minutely dulled by shearing
4. build up pressure inward, you're gonna try for a deep, long flake. hopefully the edge does not crush.
5. detach the flake with continued pressure and a slight downward push.
6. now set up a new platform about 1/4 inch down the edge, you're shooting to have this next flake create a new section of edge that joins up with the last. if you move too far down and leave a section of "old" edge between the two, just go back and remove it with similar methods.

The keys to this are:
don't let your flaker hit the new edge on it's follow through
don't create narrow indentations like serrations, try for wider flake initiations- you need strong platforms and inward rather than downward pressure..

There are other ways to sharpen a point- perhaps others will chime in. Whatever makes a straight sharp edge with no abrading remnants. Viewed edge on, the edge is straight- it shouldn't wander above and below the center plane. Viewed from one face, it should be wavy or have tiny serrations- larger serrations can impede penetration- we're cutting meat, not bread!

[aaron]

bushman- to further clarify, all flakes in the above example are on the same face- the point is not flipped during this operation.
however, in reality, i sometimes do flip the point and take tiny flakes on the other face for one reason or another- in either case i am making a more obtuse edge angle in preparation for placing my flaker ON the edge. It's quite different from my "normal" pressure flaking where flakes initiate on abraded areas ABOVE the rounded edge

[jamie]

when i was using copper i still found it better to use bone or wood to sharpen the point. its not as over powering as copper. just brushing the edge lightly with bone/wood will set the platform up for sharpening. i also sharpen from the base to the tip. pushing my flakes at an angle toward the tip. this allows the tool to pass by the sharp edge without dulling it. peace

[Gus]

Cool Thread.

Thank you.

-gus