Author Topic: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along  (Read 21679 times)

0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.

Offline MWirwicki

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,234
  • The wood speaks to you; Listen with your eyes. GSD
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #30 on: July 31, 2011, 02:58:58 pm »
Nice looking bow, Ryoon.  I like, "...but oh well...... and will make whoever receives it happy." 
Mine is finished, completely.  I will post pics soon.  I need to get a mailing tube for it.  I think I'm going to use some PVC pipe with end caps.
Matt Wirwicki
Owosso, MI

Offline RyanY

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,999
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along - CATASTROPHE!
« Reply #31 on: July 31, 2011, 06:31:05 pm »
So I finished sanding the bow, shot it in a bit more, and put an easy finish on it. Took some pictures of the bow and right when I take the full draw pic it snapped in my hand! Looking it over I'm not really sure what caused the break. There weren't any run offs at that point on the handle. I think I just made it too small and, although I couldn't feel it, it probably just had enough flex to cause the break.









Me - UH OH!

 
The break



Well at least it happened to me and not anyone else. Unfortunately I don't know if I'll have time now to make a bow for the contest. If you guys have suggestions for fixing this one I'd like to hear them. The limbs are fine so I'd just have to figure out how to put them back together.

blackhawk

  • Guest
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #32 on: July 31, 2011, 06:55:05 pm »
Well crap. That sucks. How wide was your handle. Looks too narrow with not enough depth.

Not sure how to fix that one. Cut the whole handle part off by each fade and splice it and glue a thicker handle section on and don't make it as narrow and retiller. It might work and you wood have enough length I think because you wood have about a 68" bow. Good thing you made it 80" long. You might take another half inch of set but you can now prob make weight.

Offline wvarcher

  • Member
  • Posts: 214
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #33 on: July 31, 2011, 07:16:14 pm »
i hate to see that happen.

Offline dbb

  • Member
  • Posts: 745
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #34 on: July 31, 2011, 07:39:57 pm »
Too bad,i feel sorry for you and really wanted to see the performance of that one.
I hope you manage to splice it together somehow.
But as a wise man said "If you make some bows you break some bows"

/Mikael
It's better to ask and look like a fool than not to ask and remain one...

Offline makenzie71

  • Member
  • Posts: 572
  • I can robin hood an arrow if I hit it just right.
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #35 on: July 31, 2011, 07:53:42 pm »
Finish the broken ends and round them up.  Then use some round tubing and make it a take-down bow.  I think it would still qualify for the red-oak build off.  The working portions would still be traditional and, if I recall, the construction limitation I saw was that the bow could not be backed.
Goodbye, friends. I never thought I'd die like this. But I always really hoped. ~ Fry

Offline MWirwicki

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,234
  • The wood speaks to you; Listen with your eyes. GSD
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #36 on: July 31, 2011, 11:55:52 pm »
If you could have filmed it in ultra slow motion, what it looks like to me Ryoon and is that first, your handle riser glue joint failed then with no longer a riser for strength, the handle section broke not being able to take the stress.  That's really too bad.

You do have a lot of length there.  Another way you might salvage is to redraw a handle at the fadeouts, W-splice them then glue on another riser section.  Glue failures can be for many reasons.  Too much clamp pressure (starving the glue joint), glue surfaces glassy smooth, lack of pre-sizing the gluing surfaces and/or the glue itself to name a few.  I've had delamination problems with hickory backed board bows using TB-II.  I am beginning to work with TB-III and am liking my results so far.  I scraped my glue surfaces with a fine-toothed sawz-all blade then removed any loose, hanging small shavings prior to gluing.  This method seems to give the glue a surface to grab and hold onto.

Or, you could start anew.  I think you still have time enough to complete a second attempt.  Don't get discouraged.
Matt Wirwicki
Owosso, MI

Offline RyanY

  • Member
  • Posts: 1,999
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #37 on: August 01, 2011, 12:53:25 am »
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm thinking that I could splice in a new riser piece, thicken it up with some more layers of wood, and add a fiberglass wrap around the handle for extra strength. I might be able to make another one in time but I only have a few more weeks since I have band camp coming up and then classes start up right after.

Offline makenzie71

  • Member
  • Posts: 572
  • I can robin hood an arrow if I hit it just right.
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #38 on: August 01, 2011, 01:44:52 am »
If you could really saturate the broken area with glue and attach a longer riser to take up some of the stress you might be in good shape...I just hate splices like that.  I never can bring myself to trust them.
Goodbye, friends. I never thought I'd die like this. But I always really hoped. ~ Fry

Offline Badger

  • Member
  • Posts: 8,124
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #39 on: August 01, 2011, 11:31:34 pm »
  3/4" board stock is not thick enough for a 50# bow that is longer than about 66", it will always pop off the handle or break, if the bow is designed to bend through the handle it would be fine. Steve

mikekeswick

  • Guest
Re: Mantra Red Oak board bow for contest - Build along
« Reply #40 on: August 02, 2011, 05:42:31 am »
If you could have filmed it in ultra slow motion, what it looks like to me Ryoon and is that first, your handle riser glue joint failed then with no longer a riser for strength, the handle section broke not being able to take the stress.  That's really too bad.

You do have a lot of length there.  Another way you might salvage is to redraw a handle at the fadeouts, W-splice them then glue on another riser section.  Glue failures can be for many reasons.  Too much clamp pressure (starving the glue joint), glue surfaces glassy smooth, lack of pre-sizing the gluing surfaces and/or the glue itself to name a few.  I've had delamination problems with hickory backed board bows using TB-II.  I am beginning to work with TB-III and am liking my results so far.  I scraped my glue surfaces with a fine-toothed sawz-all blade then removed any loose, hanging small shavings prior to gluing.  This method seems to give the glue a surface to grab and hold onto.

Or, you could start anew.  I think you still have time enough to complete a second attempt.  Don't get discouraged.
Modern glues work on a microscopic level, the smoothest surface you can make will work fine. There is no need to 'roughen up' the surfaces indeed it's a bad idea. If you were to look at a surface that had been roughened up with a saw blade under a microscope you would see a surface that is far from flat. Glue doesn't work as a gap filler, it is only flexible enough when it's very thin.