fletching size to bow poundage questions

[jturkey]

I am used to making 45# bows and use about a 4.75" fletching in different styles i recently made a 65# osage for my dad do i need to change the size of my fletching for the higher poundage bow? the shafts will be cane and only 28 inches. will be using a footing and glue on nocks for his piece of mind. just needing to know about the fletchings. shot a few alum out of it for test arrows and they have standard 5inch parabellum plastic vanes. and they wer kind of eratic hit or miss. so do not know if the fletching had anything to do with it and i know i am not use to that draw weight. thanks could not find anything in the search i did to explain it. i do have hundreds of wing feather from turkeys to use.

[mullet]

   For one, Plastic Vanes won't shoot worth a hoot with a self bow. The hard plastic vane will make it bounce off the riser when it passes. Also fletching size will just help the arrow recover quicker, and increase noise, and slow it down. I normally shoot 4 3/4" fletches. I try to tune my arow bareshafted as much as I can then add the feathers.

[fishfinder401]

   For one, Plastic Vanes won't shoot worth a hoot with a self bow. The hard plastic vane will make it bounce off the riser when it passes. Also fletching size will just help the arrow recover quicker, and increase noise, and slow it down. I normally shoot 4 3/4" fletches. I try to tune my arow bareshafted as much as I can then add the feathers.

what about on 100+ bows, i like the look of 6+ feathers, is that fine for this size?

[CraigMBeckett]

 

For one, Plastic Vanes won't shoot worth a hoot with a self bow. The hard plastic vane will make it bounce off the riser when it passes

Not sure I agree with you on this mullet. I don't like plastic vanes, basically because they are plastic, are heavier than feathers of the same size and can cut your bow hand when used on arrows shot off the hand. However I know a number of people who have used them effectively on self bows and in theory if you have a correctly spined arrow the vane will flex past the riser, so no bounce.

Craig

[fishfinder401]

For one, Plastic Vanes won't shoot worth a hoot with a self bow. The hard plastic vane will make it bounce off the riser when it passes

Not sure I agree with you on this mullet. I don't like plastic vanes, basically because they are plastic, are heavier than feathers of the same size and can cut your bow hand when used on arrows shot of the hand. However I know a number of people who have used them effectively on self bows and in theory if you have a correctly spined arrow the vane will flex past the riser, so no bounce.

Craig

boy can they cut, even a duct tape one almost cut right into my hand, and dont get me started about those really hard 2inch fletchings on some

[mullet]

Craig, were they shooting "hunting" distance, or those long range targets?

[johnston]

 Got to agree with Eddie.When I started with primitive archery it was for shooting/ hunting only and my first dozen arrows were bought with vanes. Could not find feathers local.  Accuracy off my hand was terrible! My first cane arrows were bad also. Bought a dozen feathered carbon and it was night and day. Just made all the difference.

Lane

[jturkey]

this is what i decided on and they shoot awesome.

[jturkey]

forgot to add picture sorry

[JW_Halverson]

Mullet is correct about proper spine.  All that extra fletching to correct improper spine just robs your arrow of speed and impact, whether it's vanes or feathers. 

As for arrows for your hundred pound bows, fishfinder, just use a wrap of duct tape and tie the whole bloody turkey on your fenceposts!   

[Pat B]

The feathers on an arrow are for keeping the arrow going straight by adding drag to the rear of the arrow. Ideally you want as little fletching on the arrow as possible so the arrow still flies well but not slows down to much. If you shoot only field points you can usually get away with fairly small fletching, with broadheads you need more. Properly spined arrows is the main concern when making arrows for a specific bow. The fletching improves the flight of a properly spined arrow and gives it a bit of spin to help stabilize the flight.
  I actually prefer larger fletching with no helical but a bit of offset for all my arrows. I get good arrow flight, quick recovery and at hunting ranges(out to maybe 25 yards) it works well for me.

[nclonghunter]

Here are a couple things I understand to affect arrow flight. The height of the feather means more to stabilizing the arrow than length, which is the understanding for the current two inch vanes. If the feather is trimmed low then it will need to be lengthened, which is seen on plains arrows.
Also the weight forward issue is important in feathers effect on arrows. The more weight forward the further forward the center line is located on shaft length. Difficult to explain but if the balance point is two inches behind the point, then the feathers are controlling the rest of the length having greater effect on the entire arrow. Place the balance point two inches in front of the feathers and the front part of the arrow will have greater effect on the back portion.
A weight forward "pulls" the arrow behind it, rather than the weight behind the point pushing it. When the weight forward is closer to the front smaller feathers can be used with equal or greater effect on the entire shaft. So, weight forward and higher feathers (not to high) is in my opinion the best option for "any arrow".

[nclonghunter]

Oh, the spine and all that has to be correct also....

[Pat B]

I think it is more of the effective surface area of the feathers. One thing about taller fletching is they lay down in flight and decreases the surface area.

[BowJunkie]

I shoot a 55 @28  and use 4 inch plastic vanes, I get  2'' groups at 30 yards.
The closer the target the tighter my groups are.
Also I shoot off of my knuckle and use a 3 finger release / 1 over and 2 fingers under