Step 19: Use a utility knife or sharp pocket knife to cut off any excess bark backing. Be careful to not cut into the bow or to cut a line that goes directly into the back. This can be tricky since the backing actually does have "grain". After the excess edges have been removed, take the 120 grit sand paper and sand the mating edges where the bow and bark backing meet. Eventually increase the quality of the sand paper to get the desired finish you want on the bow. Make sure you have removed any sharp edges where the backing ends. This will be helpful in preventing the backing from getting "snagged". I don't show any picture of the finish sanding process; I figured out this was pretty easy. See picture #24 for a finished edge.
Step 20: Finished picture of trimmed up backing
Step 21: Remove exterior bark surface with 60 to 100 grit sand paper (go slow, it comes off easily)
Step 22: Remove bark "hairs" using Scotch Brite (this will NOT remove all of it but don't worry)
Step 23: Picture with "most" of the bigger "hairs" removed
Pic 24: Avoid taking off too much, or you will hit a translucent surface and lose the purple color. See the bottom of the middle section. This picture also demonstrates a great edge finish with a nice transition between the backing and the bow.
After that you are pretty much good to go. If you have to attach a 2nd piece, repeat the steps but this time, make sure you cut a mating 45 degree angle on the mating piece of backing so the overlap looks and works well. I plan on placing thread wrapping over that section once I finish the bow.
After you have completely finished out both limbs and are ready for the finish, please go ahead and finish it out how you like. I really don't care to tell anyone what works better or worse, especially since this is the first tie I have ever done this.
Helpful Hints:
1. Trim the bark backing and AVOID any excess bark hanging over the bow's back. This will prevent the inner tube from placing pressure on the edge of the backing and "pulling" it away from the bow's face.
2. Make sure the glue is dried. Don't rush it. I still think 4-6 hours is plenty of drying time.
3. Don't be too aggressive in sanding off the exposed bark skin. It come off really easily I promise.
4. Use super glue to adhere loose pieces of the backing back onto the bow, after the inspection once the glue has dried. Don't be surprised to find a few, but don't be discouraged either.
5. In retrospect, I would recommend applying bark 2-3 days after being harvested and dried. The next bow I back will have cherry bark this is still fairly pliable and not dry and "crackly". I found the really dry bark to be too dry and prone to cracking or breaking.
6. Don't worry about excess hairs; it will lay down after the first couple of coats of Tru Oil or whatever you use for a finish.
7. This is NOT hard. I am not that savvy and I totally winged this on my own with no one helping me. All I learned was from the Bowyer's Bible. I think the details I provided are more than enough to be 100% successful.
8. This is a natural product; expect to find flaws and just deal with it and appreciate your work. I'm sure you'll be happy!
Good luck and please share your success and learnings with everyone!
Joe Klink
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