tic...

[Aries]

shoot... fwap.  shoot... fwap.  shoot.. fwap.  *tic* shoot... fwap.   

so I have been workin on this lil thing for a couple weeks now. I was in the final tillering stages and had shot it about 5 times and got the infamous tic right before i released my final shot. I quickly unstrung the bow and began searching for the culprit.   I had known about a small knot on my hickory backing strip on the edge all along, but was going with the ignore it and it will go away method... well you can see how that worked out.      

The crack is VERTICAL(perpendicular to the bow limb)  .  its prolly around or under an 1/8 in. long. 

I was lucky enough to end up having the heavy draw weight I wanted, around 60#, but i think i might have to give that up trying to sand this out.

here are some pics, opinions or suggestions are mucho appreciated. I wanted to run it by you guys before i did anything radical.


Ty

[Aries]

extra info: bow is 62" long i think, 15 in levers, and the crack is about 4 in from the fade...  approximately     goin off memory here

[Pappy]

O man that don't look good,you might narrow it down and get it out,then fill with super glue and rap. But to be honest I doubt it will hold the way the crack runs.Good luck and keep us posted.
By the way love your signs,I have some just like that,I work for Miller/Coors in Nashville.
   Pappy

[markinengland]

You could try cutting back the backing in a smooth long curve, glueing on a new section of backing and then cutting this back to give a smooth scarfed in joint. A friend did this on a failry heavy longbow and it worked for him.

The hickory backing is failry thick. It may just be possible that this is just a minor crack opened up in some puncky knotty wood and that if you glue and bind it it will hold together. A simple fabric backing of silk or linen may also be a fairly simple solution.

[Pat B]

What glue did you use. You may be able to replace the backing strip.

[Ryano]

I would trap the back into the belly core untill that comes out. (If possible) You will lose some weight but a shooter is better than a wall hanger.

[Pat B]

I see discoloration at the crack. Was the back heat treated?

[Del the cat]

I think that's a timebomb
I guess we all know that sinking feeling when we hear the dreaded tic... but all the hopin' and prayin' won't reverse it.
Maybe a rawhide patch or backing will save the day, but you'll know that crack is under there just grinning at you waiting to bite your butt.
Del

[Parnell]

How thick is the hickory backing?
I've used hickory backing on Ipe where a knot was in the middle of the strip, and it's given no trouble.  I think it's the edge.  I'd say Ryano has the right idea.

Good luck.

[Aries]

i used tb3 on the backing. and trapping sounds like a good idea, that would prolly look cleaner than sanding it out from the side and ending up with a lopsided bow.     The backing is thick,  I think it is probably about 1/4" thick maybe a lil thicker.     

[Pat B]

Since you used TBIII you can heat the backing strip and remove it. The glue will release at 150deg(F). I've done it a few times with good results. I start at one tip, heat it until I can get a screw worked under the backing and heat as I work down the bow. Might work best if you start at each end(seperately) and work towards the middle.
  Once removed both pieces can be cleaned up and a new backing strip added to the belly. The backing strip might be used on another bow or as a power lam between a back and belly.
 When I cut hickory backing strips I cut them 3/16 thick and after sanding both surfaces it usually comes out at 1/8" thick or a little less and that is plenty thick enough for almost any weight bow you want to build.

[dragonman]

I agree with Pat, steam off ,or plane off the backing and replace it, your bow will be good as new (better) and you'll keep the weight, try and cut it out ,might work-might not , be patient, no need to risk it......good luck with it anyway...

[n2huntn]

Had the same thing happen on an elm backed Mollegabet. Beveled the edges as Ryano suggested you to do and it works just fine. Still shoots to this day, 1/4 is pretty thick so you have plenty to work with.you could always strip it off later if it doesn't work to your liking.
Jeff
P.s. would like to see some close ups of those levers.

[Aries]

Had the same thing happen on an elm backed Mollegabet. Beveled the edges as Ryano suggested you to do and it works just fine. Still shoots to this day, 1/4 is pretty thick so you have plenty to work with.you could always strip it off later if it doesn't work to your liking.
Jeff
P.s. would like to see some close ups of those levers.

I trapped the back and removed the crack and lost less than 5# in the process.    And youll have to wait for the finished product to see the whole shabang .  il post the finished bow in a couple days. ive been playin alot with lam d/r molle's lately, this is my first shooting one. I still  have to fine tune my tip weight and do some finishin before itll be completely ready.     

Thank you guys for helpin me save this thing I retillered and shot it a few times... no explosions yet. ill do some more testing tomorrow.  

[n2huntn]

I got my eye on ya Okie, be lookin for that stick. 
Jeff