question about titebond

[backgardenbowyer]

I've bought some titebond 111 to try as a more convenient alternative to my usual polyproof (= resorcinal in UK) for laminations/backings.  I tried a test gluing a scrap of boo backing on one side of an ipe off cut and a scrap of hickory backing on the other.  This was "clamped" in my usual way with bicycle innner tube.  After 24hrs when I removed the rubber the excess gllue which had been underneath the rubber tube was still very soft, whilst that at the end of the test strip where it was exposed to the air was completely cured.  This makes me nervous - can titebond be used in this way with rubber strips which keep out the air or can it only be used with clamps (which I don't have!).  The joins themselves look good and in a tight joint the air would be excluded anyway wouldn't it - so do the rubber clamping strips make any difference?

Any thoughts or experiences?

Thanks

Stan

[Pdwight]

Tag for reference...I want to know too

[Pat B]

I don't think it is a problem. After an appropriate curing time remove the tubes, wipe off the excess glue and let the bow cure another 24 hours and you should be OK. I think the glue under the tube was like keeping it in an air tight container so it didn't cure out. The glue in the joint should have cured fine because the wood and boo absorbed the excess moisture.
  Tite Bond has a good tech support. I have called them before and I got good friendly info. If possible, give that a try.

[crooketarrow]

   I've used it alot with no worry's.Pat has it right just give it more time.

[jeff halfrack]

  I know  how  you  feel!   but  did you  notice  how  quickly  the  wet  glue  dried!!!  I  use  tbIII  all  the  time   just  unwrap  the  work  let  it  dry  awhile .   what  I  do  is glue at night, un wrap in  the morning, go to  work then  when I get  home  work on  the  project  JW

[KenH]

I've used it with shrink wrap, and it'll be just fine. As mentioned, remove your rubber bands and give the glue up another 12-24 hours to set.

[mullet]

 Yep, like everybody else said. After the outside edges start turning a clear, brown, unwrap it and let it dry some more. I use a lot of spring clamps when I use TB3.

[Alpinbogen]

I've glued bark backing with Titebond and used innertube wrappings.  I had the same experience both times.  48-hrs later, the glue was still sopping wet when I took the bands off and the bark lifted immediately in several places.  I re-wrapped right away with cotton string and threw on C-clamps in the worst areas that had lifted.  (I saved each project that way.)  Rubber bands and TB aren't a combo I recommend.

[Catahoula]

Hi,

I use TIII in all my flute glue ups...but use electrical tape as the clamps spaced every couple of inches...where the tape is it is always a little gooey when the e tape is removed but completes its drying without needing to be reclamped via the tape (C Clamps don't work on branch flutes).  Never had a problem with the glue and have made hundreds of flutes.  If I was gluing ipe I would clean it first with acetone before glue up.  Hmmm...an ipe flute sounds interesting!

Rand

[Rich Saffold]

The most important thing to remember with TB3 is it dries by removing oxygen from the joint and this is why a very tight glue line is needed, and why when you unwrap the bow there is still wet glue on the outside of the glue line.

So if your two parts aren't "airtight" use a gap filling epoxy.

 Alpineboggin we have been using inner tube strips with TB3 for years with no problems, and the reason you did have problems is your glue line was full of gaps.

Rich

[Pdwight]

So if I were gluing on limb tips I should clamp as tightly as possible ?, and I may be opening up a can of worms here.....but do you think TB3 is stronger than super glue for two different types of wood like limb tips ??

Thanks
Dwight

[bryan irwin]

I use tb3 on bbi and bb red oak i use spring clamps and had no problems

[El Destructo]

Here ...I will open up a Bigger Can-O-Worms.........I would rather use any of the Titebond Glues than any Cyanoacrylate...for the simple reason that Super Glues bond great...but Super Glues get brittle very fast also...and on a Bending Joint...I will take my chances with Titebond...or a Two Part Glue..JMO

[backgardenbowyer]

Thanks for advice guys.  Seems most of you are happy with titebond under an airtight seal whilst one or two have problems.  It's mainly because I stress my staves into some reflex during gluing that I'm concerned - they need support until the glue is fully cured.  Perhaps I should stick to polyproof/resorcinol and play safe - its just fun to experiment.

Here's a further thought about titebond:-

I let the test strip cure a further 24hrs without the wraps and then tested to destruction by forcing a chisel into each glue line.  In both cases the glue let go without the wood splitting - though it needed a bit of force (I'd have execpted the wood to give before the glue with a good resorcinol bond).  The curiosity is that on the bamboo test the glue stuck to the boo and pulled away from the ipe.  On the hickory test the glue stuck to the ipe leaving the hickory completely clean.  It could be there was a difference in the quality of the surface prep. as it was a test maybe I wasn't thorough, or it could be that the hydroscopic hickory sucked all the water out of the glue before it had time to set.  Not sure whether this is significant or not, but it is certainly curious!

Stan

[adb]

I've glued bark backing with Titebond and used innertube wrappings.  I had the same experience both times.  48-hrs later, the glue was still sopping wet when I took the bands off and the bark lifted immediately in several places.  I re-wrapped right away with cotton string and threw on C-clamps in the worst areas that had lifted.  (I saved each project that way.)  Rubber bands and TB aren't a combo I recommend.

I completely disagree. I use nothing but rubber inner tubes and TB3 with zero problems. Don't over-lap your wraps... leave a half inch or so between wraps to let some air circulate.