First two board bows

[Frode]

My camera doesn't handle closeups well, but here are few pics showing the newly rounded back edges on the red oak board, a shot of it strung, and a full draw shot.
The distance between the string and handle (brace height?) is 7".  Does that seem right?  The string is twisted a bit tighter than in the earlier pics.
I'd been advised that there was a flat/stiff area on the upper limb, but there was some question as to whether or not it could be corrected without ruining the bow.  Your thoughts? 
You can see from the full draw pic that my technique would be to blind my prey with head glare, then strike.

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[George Tsoukalas]

Good tiller. I like a little more movement from the fades on but that's personal preference. Jawge

[Frode]

Thanks, George.  That raises another question about the differences in bows that curve quickly or through the entire limb, vs. those that seem to curve more quickly near the tips. 
That's for another day, though.
Frode

[Josh]

You can see from the full draw pic that my technique would be to blind my prey with head glare, then strike.

I hear ya brother.     -josh

[OldBow]

Got you red oak board bow bookmarked for Dec BOM fun. Any more?

[Frode]

Thanks, Oldbow!  I strung and shot a half dozen from the maple bow tonight, it still needs a bit of work on the upper limb.  It's a lot heavier draw than I'm used to so far, 50+ at full draw, so I have to decide whether to take it down a notch or just try and man up. 
Frode

[medicinewheel]

...  It's a lot heavier draw than I'm used to so far, 50+ at full draw, so I have to decide whether to take it down a notch or just try and man up....

I would not take down weight below a draw weight you have already pulled!

Your fulldraw looks good! - It's often hard to tell from the pictures but maybe it bends a bit too much in the lower limb; if it feels okay in the hand, leave it alone.

[Frode]

I would not take down weight below a draw weight you have already pulled!

I was afraid you'd say that, medicinewheel!  Oh well, pass the Wheaties.   

Well everyone, here it is, tillered some more to even out the limbs.  Currently about 50@27".  It looks more even to me, but I defer to more experienced eyes.  I welcome all your comments!
Thanks,
Frode

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[George Tsoukalas]

Frode, when a bow does most of its bending mid limb on it actually begins to stack ( rapid increase in poundage) as full draw approaches. That is one of the draw backs to that design. To counteract the stacking the bow must be made longer. Jawge

[George Tsoukalas]

Getting the near handle wood to move a little more should help. Jawge

[Frode]

Frode, when a bow does most of its bending mid limb on it actually begins to stack ( rapid increase in poundage) as full draw approaches. That is one of the draw backs to that design. To counteract the stacking the bow must be made longer. Jawge

Getting the near handle wood to move a little more should help. Jawge

Hi George,
I took just a bit off in the first third (or so) of each limb, and smoothed it all back out.  It seems a bit faster out of the fades, and the draw dropped to 47#@28".
Your thoughts?
Thanks,
Frode

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[George Tsoukalas]

Tiller is beautiful. I like it. How's she drawing for you. Jawge

[Frode]

Tiller is beautiful. I like it. How's she drawing for you. Jawge

Smoother, now, thanks.  47#'s a bit more than I'm used to, yet, but it doesn't bind up near the end like it did initially.  I think I understand the concept of stacking a little better now, too.
I won't call myself a bowyer, but Missus Frode is starting to think she's a bowyer's widow, so no more work tonight, but tomorrow I'll finish it up and post with some (hopefully) better pictures.
Thanks again,
Frode

[El Destructo]

                                           Oh great....a PatB Clone........................ ........ .............


                                              Nice Tiller Frode....I like it....just kidding on the Pat thang!!!