First thing you need to do is get the sapwood off if it and down to your back ring, or one above it. Then even up the sides and get all the checks and splits off. Then flatten the belly to establish the plane of the back ring, parallel obviously. Then measure and see what you'll have in terms of width, and depth at the splice, once you part it on the bandsaw, bearing in mind you need to follow the grain. There are always surprises under the sapwood, sometimes good sometimes not so good.
I'd strongly encourage a W splice and Urac for the splice, epoxy second or some other gap filling glue... unless you are particularly adepts at fitting the joints. I've rarely seen a tight enough fit, absent a buttload of fiddle factor, for Titebond to fill completely.
Looks like you got plenty good candidates, and imho for 27" draw you can go down as short at 60" if necessary depending upon what your billets shape up like.
Biggest thing is getting it reduced pronto. You don't really have time for it to dry thoroughly as it is.
