316 Stainless Steel

[RidgeRunner]

Picked up some scrapes of 316 Stainless Steel from a metal fab shop today.
It is approximately 1/16" thick.  ( No calipers )

Will this make good, sharp, strong broadheads? 

Thanks
David

[makenzie71]

316 will take a razor edge but won't hold it very long...it's not really worth it.  Better to get a good cutting edge and leave it a bit rough.  It's heavy, though, and it is pretty suseptible to rust, so don't expect it to be weatherproof and I would think it best to keep the points on the small side.

I will say, though, that I've never made broadheads out of 316...just knives...lots of knives.

[RidgeRunner]

Thanks for the reply:
I plan to make my bradheads 1" wide and 1 1/4" long with a tang on the base.
There also may be a fish fillet knife in this little pile of scrap.

Thanks
David

[makenzie71]

1x1.25 seems a little squarish to me.  I would go with 1X1.5 or .75X1.25...with a preference for the narrower for the sake of weight.  But it does depend on how much use you want to get out of it.  The broader the head, the more friction your cutting surface will see, which will lead to faster wear, though your first hits will be more damaging.

[Bushbow]

316 should not rust. It has a very high content of nickel and chrome, it is generally used in industry where chemical resistance is needed. 301 and 304 are used in restaurants for food preparation, 316 is the next step up. 430 stainless has a higher carbon content and will rust, but not to a great extent.

[makenzie71]

316 should not rust. It has a very high content of nickel and chrome, it is generally used in industry where chemical resistance is needed. 301 and 304 are used in restaurants for food preparation, 316 is the next step up. 430 stainless has a higher carbon content and will rust, but not to a great extent.

Been working in machine shops for a while .  316 will rust...but, so as to be clear, it's not like it'll just instantly crust up with oxide.  It's what I make all my shock bodies from...that and 416...and both corrode after being in the weather.  It's likely not as big a concern with a bowyer...or with someone whose job isn't so demanding of true surfaces.

[M-P]

Hi,  I do surgery for a living and work with 316L all day long.  Hey the stuff is chosen to be reasonably strong and very corrosion resistant in an oxidative enviroment.  It corrodes badly in a reductive enviroment, but that is unlikely to be a problem for an arrowhead.  The bigger problem is that 316 is only moderately strong ( for steel) and doesn't hold an edge very well.  Ron

[RidgeRunner]

Well, I cut a trade point out of a piece of the 316 this weekend.
I looks real good.  However, it felt "soft" under my file.
Tried to sharpen it on a knife sharpening stone....  Would not get sharp.
The edge would roll up. 

OH well, my wife wants a set of heavy, serrated steak knives.
Now if I can just come up with a dishwasher proof handle?  You folks got any ideas?

[Pat B]

I read an article in a PA Magazine long ago written by a bladesmith. He stated that stainless was developed for ball bearings, not knives. I never understood why folks like stainless steel for knives or broadheads. You can't beat good carbon steel for either and they are not going to rust unless you allow them to. I have knives that are 30 years old and besides a little discoloration they remain sharp and can easily be resharpened with a quick lick of a hard stone or ceramic rod. I can work all day on a stainless blade and never get it really sharp enough and if I do manage to it doesn't stay sharp.

[makenzie71]

I read an article in a PA Magazine long ago written by a bladesmith. He stated that stainless was developed for ball bearings, not knives. I never understood why folks like stainless steel for knives or broadheads. You can't beat good carbon steel for either and they are not going to rust unless you allow them to. I have knives that are 30 years old and besides a little discoloration they remain sharp and can easily be resharpened with a quick lick of a hard stone or ceramic rod. I can work all day on a stainless blade and never get it really sharp enough and if I do manage to it doesn't stay sharp.

100% spot on.

RidgeRunner...if you use a good dense wood and keep it properly oiled it'll hold up to dishwasher duty (not the drying cycle).  My old Chicago Cutlery (from back when they were good knives) hit the dishwasher every night with no damage.  And tell your wife you can't sharpen serated knives easily...and the localized cut focus a serated edge creates will dull out on 316 in a hurry.

[zeNBowyer]

Modern stainless steels make superb knives and rust is a factor, a good stainless steel blade will. Take a fine edge

[RidgeRunner]

Thanks Pat and Makenzie:

That may be Zen.  I have a few stainless knives at home that work fine.  But I don't think this 316 is going to qualify as good stainless steel.  At least not for sharp blade making purposes.

I may make a set of knives for my wife.  I have some scraps of high grade oak flooring at home.  If it was soaked in oil it should make good handles.

Thanks
David

[Jay]

when working with stainless, keep it appart from your mild steels.especially when you are working the mild steels. The airborn particles from the mild steel will embbed themselves in the ss and cause it to rust. use "virgin" grinders and files and you should not have any issues with type 316.

Jay

[RidgeRunner]

Thanks Jay.
Right now all of my 316 is boxed up in a small box by itself.
I need to buy a new file.  My old one is shot.

Looks like I need to buy two new files.

Thanks
David